Real ivory?

ThinIce

Jr. Member
Dec 1, 2015
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Primary Interest:
All Treasure Hunting
Hello

I'm wondering if the following objects are ivory. These were purchased at antique and thrift stores for a few dollars a piece.

I'm not much of an ivory expert, only taking heed on the ivory identification during my museum internship over the summer. These objects were only several bucks a piece, so any fakes wouldn't be so significant to me.

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The middle one I'm 99.99 percent sure is bone, as it is darker, porous, and rough much like the ones I had looked at over the summer. In comparison to all the other objects I have accumulated, only this one is likely bone. The rest are either fakes or authentic ivory. The one on each side look pale ivory colored, but they are really dry and not the smooth and shiny ones seen on the other objects. Though they do not exhibit similar bone texture, the surface is rough, and small indents can be seen.


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Forks from an antique shop in Door County, Wisconsin. Some of the tips are broken off, but the surface is quite smooth. Broken parts feel and look natural.



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A tattered fan I found at a thrift store for 3 dollars. Has curved, wavy textured, thin lines all over the surface. Has small indents on the surface.



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A needle that came with a file. The curved has tiny dots but not in a pattern you'd see in bone. The needle point is chipped, leaving a rough texture on an otherwise smooth surface.



I'm not an ivory expert so I'm wondering if there are other ways other than the hot needle test that can help identify my finds.
 

I'm not either, but I have heard them say on Antiques Roadshow that you can heat a needle and if it is ivory it will not go in but if it is plastic it should go in fairly easy.
 

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Ok... here goes... :)... ready ?

Will edit as I go...
Duggap iscorrect with the "hot pin test"... this will tell you if plastic... and also can tell bone in some instances...

Use a safety pin... bigger the better... undo it and stretch lightly into a V shape...
Then take a lighter and heat just the tip of point until glowing red...
immediately press into object. IN AN AREA THAT IS NOT SO noticeable ...
LAy item flat OR IF holding be sure to pay attention or you may get poked yourself...

RESULTS = If pin "sinks" into object... Tis plastic.. quickly smell it as well to see if you have a plastic smell.

IF smells like burning hair... bone...

IF steady sit and light smell... Tusk of some sort.

OK PART 2...

Look at the surface of any suspect piece... IF pitted = bone.
Smooth = ivory.

Now 3...
Ivory has "cross hatchings"... this is a pattern within the ivory in which it is stripped...
NOW...
Some plastics contain this... the most famous and sometime hardest AND easiest to detect is called Ivorine...

For someone who knows ivory... ivorine is spotted immediately because the lines always ONLY go one way.


Basics... there you have it... Now... Time to use my tusks to eat.
 

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I'm not either, but I have heard them say on Antiques Roadshow that you can heat a needle and if it is ivory it will not go in but if it is plastic it should go in fairly easy.

What tool do you need to use to heat up a needle? I have a cigarette lighter if that's enough, but no torch that will make any metal red hot.
 

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I know Ivory... If it is porous at all it is not Ivory... its bone, most likely whale bone. Ivory polishes really smooth and has grain lines in it...
Gary from Oregon
 

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All of the suspected ivory objects are not porous and so far every one of them has passed the needle test (using a pin and cigarette lighter). Not sure on whether or not I did the test correctly, but I made sure the pin had a bit of glowing red before taking the needle and putting it on the surface.
 

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