Problems with Ace Coin iD

[Larsmed]

Hey fellow ace people!

I really enjoy my ace 150 except for the coin ID problems. do you ever get coin Id's for pipes, cans or eliptical tins??

Or is your con Id always pretty much dead on?

If garrett cant fix this, I might have to switch to the F-2

peace

Larry

 

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[Dan B]

Hi Larry,

You are expecting too much, not only from your ACE, but from metal detectors in general. Target ID is only 100% certain once you have dug it up and it's in your hand. All target ID's will get tricked by some items. Switching to an F2 (just for the reason) will disappoint you. You could go all out on a GTI 2500 and find you are still getting false ID's. That's just how it is if you rely on ID screens.

Dan

 

[Larsmed]

Dan

You are right, now I rely mainly on TID..TheLCD is too decieving!!

 

[John-Edmonton]

Metal detectors are designed to respond to a coin size target's conductivity. The more factors interfering with this process, such as surface oxidation, mineralization, size, humidity etc the further the probability will stray of the paticular target.


Discrimination designations such as notches, numbers, tones or any combination of these is actually the same thing. It depends on what type of value the manufacturer decides to incorperate into it's machine. If the notches are way off for a tin can, so will the numeric value and tone. Some people just prefer one over they other....

 

[khouse]

You can buy a $1200.00 detector and still dig the items you mentioned. Listen to the size of the object when in the PP mode. This will tell you a lot. You'll still catch Bluegills on a professional high dollar rod and reel fishing for Bass! How would you feel digging tabs, can slaw, cut pieces of aluminum, deep aluminum cans, shotgun shells and lead weights with a high dollar detector? Not too good. But we all do it. Conductivity of metal is what you up against. Tons of trash have the same conductivity as coins. Multiply that by 100 if your hunting jewelry! Give yourself at least 100 hours and post many questions before you sell. All detectors are classified as "metal detectors" and all brands do just that.

 

[monsterrd]

I go by the sound, very rarely look at the screen, except to check the battery level, a coin can read different depths or what kind it actually is if it is turned in a wierd direction.

 

[hollowpointred]

yup, there isnt a detector made at any price that IDs coins correctly 100% of the time. there isnt anything wrong with your ace. its just the nature of the beast.

 

[~MetalDigger~]

Since I have got used to the tone ID on my 250, and useing the right amount of notch descremination, and looking for a constant signal beep in both left/right swing direction. I find my ID to be right more than 65-75% of the time.

Even the hight end MDer's want be 100% accurate. I'm very happy with my Ace 250.

 

[khouse]

To get the best possible TID is to PP the target. Then wiggle the coil directly centered over it in tiny, quick 4 inch sweeps. This is true for all brands. Sometimes you will get a good repeatable beep on the side or edge of a bad target. Then when you PP your centered. Then wiggling the coil in that spot you may find that your detector won't beep or is not repeatable. This is an indication it may be trash. But dig a few to find out?

 

[Larsmed]

guys

thanks for he advice. I have said this before, but I cant expect excellent results if i do not hunt the right areas


I think the ace is a decent machine, but I am not going to the right places and my ear is playing tricks on me .lol...I will buy more expensive headphones!!

 

[~MetalDigger~]

Sony MDR-V250 are some really good headphones, they have a 1/4 headphone adapter, plus a in-line volume control