Power Sluice Project Finished

[QNCrazy]

Decided last week to finally build a legit power head for my sluice. Made out of 22ga sheet metal. Tack welded and sealed with silicone. First water test failed, lots of leaks. A trip to the hardware store and more silicone did the trick. Here are some pics and video.







https://youtu.be/Qe0gUlnSdsE

Thanks for looking.

 

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[PurpleGold]

Nice work! The green paint job makes it look sexy. It looks like it runs perfectly.

 

[matt_unique]

What pump did you use?

 

[QNCrazy]

I used a HF 1 HP Submersible Dirty Water Pump with Tethered Float 2640 GPH.

 

[Goodyguy]

Nice build

Please dont take this the wrong way......
My advice from someone who has built many home made mining equipment projects is to get a small sheet metal brake if you plan to do a lot of projects.

I've found that Aluminum is a lot cheaper, easier to work with, lighter to carry, wont rust, easier to cut, easier to drill, easier to bend, does not require painting, etc. than working with steel sheet metal.

You can get a 30" brake from harbor freight for under $60
Believe me, once you use start using aluminum you will be hooked.
Don't worry about welding aluminum as pop rivets work great.

30 in. Bending Brake


GG~

 

[QNCrazy]

Nice build

Please dont take this the wrong way......
My advice from someone who has built many home made mining equipment projects is to get a small sheet metal brake if you plan to do a lot of projects.

I've found that Aluminum is a lot cheaper, easier to work with, lighter to carry, wont rust, easier to cut, easier to drill, easier to bend, etc. than working with steel sheet metal.

You can get a 30" brake from harbor freight for under $60
Believe me, once you use start using aluminum you will be hooked.
Dont wory about welding aluminum as pop rivets work great.

30 in. Bending Brake


GG~

GG, thanks for the advice. I haven't quite got my new garage set up like i want yet. It too is a work in progress. The brake is something I will definitely have to look in to.

 

[Goodyguy]

I took the liberty of posting your video so it's easier to view by inserting the link into the "insert video" tab on the toolbar.

 

[QNCrazy]

Thanks again. Most of my postings I do from the app on my phone. I guess I'll have to figure that out.

 

[rivets]

Cool ...


Plumbing tip


Seeing the bend and the female adapter which connects onto the tank connector are positioned after the valve and therefore never put under pressure they can both be shortened ... needing only about 1/2" of pipe to be glued into the fittings + if you do this accurately they butt together forming a stronger bond ... I know this may sound like nitpicking but this would have brought your pipe up to 1 1/2" closer to your trough thus putting less stress on the tank connector due to leverage

 

[QNCrazy]

Thats pretty much what I did. All those fittings have very little or no gap at all. Trust me, it's solid. Great minds think alike. I do appreciate all the advice.

Edit:

I see what you are talking about now. Right below the valve is a T fitting reducing from 1 1/4" to 1" for my hose to connect to for clean outs. So what you see from the powerhead is an adapter, elbow, valve, T fitting, adapter, and union.