Pans and classifiers

madmantrapper

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Sep 1, 2018
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Carroll County, Maryland
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All Treasure Hunting
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What pans and classifiers do you folks use? I've never panned before and don't want to waste a lot of money on useless stuff. So what should a beginner really have. I am not looking for junk, I want something of good quality.

If you have to carry dirt in a bucket to water to pan it then a 1/2" opening classifier is in order to eliminate the extra weight of worthless rocks. Other than that the most useful classifiers IMO are small (4 to 6" diameter) 30, 50 and 100 mesh used to batch by size your "production" panned concentrates. The reason...gold is over three times heavier than most other rocks, etc. of about equal size making gold recovery easier after classification.

No preference on a pan other than it have a comparatively wide bottom. Others like the super sluice, a very large and heavy pan thus handles a large amount of dirt quickly.

Good luck.
 

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Garrett Super Sluice pan is a good general prospecting pan, hard to lose gold out of that thing. Having a smaller pan that you can pan into the larger pan is handy. I usually use a 1/2" classifier. Steel pans are good too but they require a little more practice to gain confidence and you have to make sure they stay dry between use or they rust away pretty quick.
 

I use the Proline Professional in black all the time although I like the Garret Supersluice too.

4 mesh classifier in the field, 30/50/70 mesh at home.
 

Where I pan it is all glacial dust sized gold with a slim chance of diamond (have not found one yet). I usually pan stuff I sluiced through a drop riffle so it has already been classified to 1/2". Then I pour a panfull of concentrates through a -kitchen strainer- into a pan. They are about 20 mesh. Then I pan.

Don't forget to check the strainer for diamond. The diamonds are usually cube shaped.
 

Hard to beat the Garrett Super sluice pan for all around panning, it has all the bells and whistles you will ever need, plus it is great quality.
A smaller finishing pan in addition is also handy. Once you get good at panning any decent pan will do.

Just starting out, 1/2" , 1/4" and 1/8" classifiers are useful.
Get the diameter classifiers that fit onto the top of a 5 gallon bucket. They will make life so much easier when wet classifying by the creek.

Fill the bucket up with water until it covers the inside of the paydirt filled classifier then shake the bucket by holding onto the classifier and rocking the whole assembly back and forth. Or just use your hand to work the material through the screen.


GG~
 

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Right on, classify into a five gallon bucket like Goodyguy says.

I use a three gallon bucket that fits neatly inside my five gallon. Then I cut the bottom of the buket off leaving a rim to hold a peice of 1/2" hardware cloth. I just put the three gallon in the five gallon 1/4 full of water, shovel the three gallon full, then twist and shake while lifting the three gallon bucket out. Dump the washed rocks out of the three gallon. Repeat.

Cheap is good when it works.
 

Building your own classifiers is much less costly and they work better than the store bought ones because you can build them to be deeper like Duckshots version.
I really like his idea of using a 3 gallon bucket with the bottom cut out.

The best way I have found to attach the screen to the bottom of a cut off plastic bucket is to use a heat gun or propane torch to melt it into the plastic and then trim even with the edge.

I am still using the same classifiers that I did this to over 10 years ago.

classifier.jpg
 

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Right? When was the last time peeps were finding half inch nuggets?

You make a good point.

The 1/2" classifier makes it faster and easier to wash off any gold stuck to the larger rocks.
Then classify to 1/4 inch to run in the sluice or pan.

Always check the waste rock for nuggets or gems.
Also, always a possibility that a chunk of quartz could have some visible gold intruded into it.

quartz.jpeg


Go for the Gold
GG~
 

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Building your own classifiers is much less costly and they work better than the store bought ones because you can build them to be deeper like Duckshots version.
I really like his idea of using a 3 gallon bucket with the bottom cut out.

The best way I have found to attach the screen to the bottom of a cut off plastic bucket is to use a heat gun or propane torch to melt it into the plastic and then trim even with the edge.

I am still using the same classifiers that I did this to over 10 years ago.

View attachment 1917964

Great idea! Thanks I’m sure I’ll give this one a shot.
 

I made my classifier out of 8” round rings from hobby lobby and used 1/4” wire screen, it looks somewhat like the arbor fabricating classifiers but only cost me like $15, and I’ve been using it for 6 months now. I’ll snap a picture of it when I get a chance. It’s just 2 8” round rings, spaced 6-8” apart and 1/4” mesh around the perimeter and on the bottom, all zip tied together, straight up red neck engineered and it works.
 

I made one like this a while back, I found that having holes drilled on the sides of the bucket, about 3-4” above the screen really helps wet that upper material and helps wash it from above and below. Just 8-10 1/2” holes drilled in. Just thought I’d share some insight into what I found makes this style work the best ��
 

I made one like this a while back, I found that having holes drilled on the sides of the bucket, about 3-4” above the screen really helps wet that upper material and helps wash it from above and below. Just 8-10 1/2” holes drilled in. Just thought I’d share some insight into what I found makes this style work the best ��

I like that idea, especially when using the 3 gallon bucket classifier into a 5 gallon bucket. Plenty of room for the classified material to come out of the sides.

Right now I'm fabricating a way to classify into a 5 gallon bucket using a windshield wiper motor to rotate the classifier back and forth like a washing machine agitator.
I already made it work by pushing a foot pedal to operate the linkage which gets old fast, so with the motor I can let it classify on it's own and not have to be there to operate the foot pedal. :icon_thumright:

Here is the foot operated version...............
The handle attached to the classifier is there to dump the classifier out after agitating.
It's mounted on a hinge so it repositions the classifier back into the bucket after dumping.
classifier.jpg


I know it's overkill, but I like to tinker. I even had a vibrator mounted on it as well but removed it due to the noise.
Will post video of it in action once I receive the windshield washer motor that I ordered on e-bay and finish fabricating the linkage.

Total cost to build was around $15 using scrap square tubing and other scrap aluminum that I purchased from Bulldog Recycling including the nuts and bolts that I buy by the pound at Tractor Supply. The wiper motor will add an additional $30 and 12v battery $20. All totaled when completed $65. NOT for sale!

GG~
 

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