Indian Head Pennies

[vwshepherd]

I'm new to this and have recently come across quite a few of these indian head pennies. Most of which are in really good condition ( I found them near an old auger road next to an old house which had been abandoned for years). I guess my real question is how do recognize the ones with real value?

Thanks in advance,
wayne

 

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[cryptodave]

http://www.pcgs.com has a coin price guide.

 

[djui5]

The link above is great for getting an idea, though it's usually inflated. Coins (not all of them) sell for about 75% of the prices on that site. Some more, some less.

Also, check e-bays completed listings, and various other sites online. You could go to a local coin shop and ask them what they're selling specific coins for.

You should pick up a 2008 Red Book if you're going to be getting into coins. If you ever wanna get super serious, the grey sheet is helpful, but it's more for dealers and such as it's updated monthly and very expensive.

 

[BioProfessor]

Try some of the auction houses that sell coins. Many times they have archived their prior sales and you can see what the coin went for. Condition is everything so if you think from looking at selling prices you have a valuable coin, get it slabbed. You can then determine the real price.

Daryl

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Try some of the auction houses that sell coins. Many times they have archived their prior sales and you can see what the coin went for. Condition is everything so if you think from looking at selling prices you have a valuable coin, get it slabbed. You can then determine the real price.

Daryl

Slabbing isn't the end-all answer. That adds $15 to $25 to your expenses (per coin) and most IHP between 1879 and 1909 aren't worth that in uncirculated condition to begin with. A few of the goodies prior to that are dandies, however.

I suspect PCGS has the slabbing factored into their "optimistic" values. I prefer the Coin Prices magazine from the grocery store. There is also the bad grade curse. I have known guys to re-send coins three or four times for grading before they got what they considered the grade should be. (You can subscribe to a grading service and the per-coin slabbing costs drop dramatically).

And then there are words like "Cleaned" and "Artifically Toned" they may stick on the slab that kill the value. There is no appeal process.

And get a good magnifying glass or loupe. IHC are tough. Look for three complete diamonds in the headband ribbon, all the letters in LIBERTY, and ANYTHING with the year 1877. That's the key date in any condition where you can still make out the date.

 

[vwshepherd]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the help.

What do you guys suggest I use to clean these pennies? I thought of course about Brasso, but I figured I should be sure before rubbing anything on them.

Thanks again,
wayne

 

[BioProfessor]

DON'T CLEAN THE PENNIES!!!

DON'T CLEAN THE PENNIES!!!

DON'T CLEAN THE PENNIES!!!


Daryl

 

[vwshepherd]

Okay, sorry. Thanks for the info...

 

[gold fish]

What dates did you get ??

 

[vwshepherd]

early 1880's all the way thru early 1900's

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the help.

What do you guys suggest I use to clean these pennies? I thought of course about Brasso, but I figured I should be sure before rubbing anything on them.

Thanks again,
wayne

What BioProfessor said. "Don't" If they are dirty a soak in clean water and a DELICATE cleaning with Ivory Soap will help. Anytime you clean a coin you reduce it's value. If you rub it you scratch it with the dirt already there plus the finger/rag/towel leaves marks.

A long (weeks or months) soak in olive oil will help with some, but if it's a nice condition coin already . . . leave it alone.

 

[vwshepherd]

Thanks Charlie, I'll give it a try (the soaking). Most of them are actually in pretty good shape, I just picked up a magnifying glass on my way to work so I'm looking forward to checking them out tonight.

Stumbling on these has peeked quite a bit of interest in me whether they are worth anything or not. I'm considering buying a metal detector to fumble around on some of these old roads where I live. Especially in the mountains and around some of the old roads where some houses used to be years (and years ago).

Do you guys have any suggestions on a decent, yet cost friendly metal detector? Don't get me wrong I know that you get what you pay for, but I was looking for something to just get started.

thanks,
wayne

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

I have a used Minelab Musketeer Advantage that is a solid machine. It goes as deep as most of the big dogs, but has less discrimination against trash (and the feature known as "notch" that allows you to blank out specific problem items like pull tabs or bottle caps that can be heavy in some sites). It also has no visual display, but the audio gives enough clues to make up for it when you get to know the sounds. I paid $225 four years ago, and it came with an extra coil, "hip mount" shoulder bag, NiMH batteries and both a wall & 12V charger. I highly recommend that one if you can find a used one. Little to go wrong if it's not battered around.

The Tesoro detectors are good and they have some relatively low cost models (the Compadre I think it is, for like $150). Fisher has a very similar 1212-X. The standard now seems to be Garrett's Ace 250 for just over $200, which gives a video display, as does White's Prizm II for the same $. I would avoid any detector that gives a single, modulated "belltone" for every hit. You want one that gives "real-time" audio so you can judge whether it's a smooth, even tone or a clipped, chipped ot chirpy signal that usually incates trash (especially foil). There is a big following for Bounty Hunter but I really know nothing at all about the brand. Best way is to get somewhere to try a couple out.

Here's a site to get a flavor. http://metaldetectorreviews.net/

The features you get with added $ are not necessarily more depth. But definately better abilities in trashy sites, mineral soils, disturbed soils, etc. You can find quite a bit with a low end detector if you dig every signal and figure the trash is part of paying your dues. Lots of guys miss good finds because they (or their machine) misinterprets a signal.

Good headphones will make a world of difference, too.

 

[vwshepherd]

Thanks Charlie, a little more $$$ may be what I need to look into. I think that more than a few of the places that I'm considering checking out have been used in the past as "party spots", so a lot of soda and other beverage tabs and or cans will probably be a reoccurring find.

I'll definitely check out the site, thanks again.