I need a repair manual for a Fisher VLF-552D

[Gen. Breckinridge]

I bought a Fisher 552D off Ebay "working perfectly", right! It does work in the all metal mode but in discriminate is will pick up a quarter if it is against the coil, no more. Even the schematic would help a lot. I would pay for a copy of the service manual if you have one. Fisher does not support these great machines anymore but there has to be a repair station out there that has the service manual. I'm going to email Fisher about a copy of the manual but previous emails have been ignored. It's funny since they used a story of mine to promote the 550 series way back when.

Also does anyone have a source for the correct size battery holder for the 550 series? I ordered some that looked right but don't fit (the plastic was to wide). I have a working 555D and I love it but would like to get the 552 up and going.

Thanks!
The General

 

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[JOE(USA)]

Gen. Breckinridge,

I've got a newly acquired 555 - D Pro. I just finished rewiring the toggle tuning in the hip mount rod. I have the manual for it, I think the controls are just about the same,if I remember right. I would be happy to share a copy of what I have. Keith Wills @ East Texas Metal detectors may have the service manual on it? I'll check my sources on the batt. holders, I would like to get some spares myself. Check out my ebay store at the bottom of this message box. Joe

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Fisher lists a series of regional service centers on their website. I'd contact the shops on that list and see if anyone has a bench manual they'd copy for you.

Good luck.

 

[Gen. Breckinridge]

Thanks guys for the input. I have the operating manual but need the service manual and a copy would do just fine. I did receive a reply from Fisher which was a surprise but their answer was not:

If a service manual is available in our archives, then it still
would only be available to authorized Fisher service centers and our
repair team. The only other alternative would be to call in and speak
with a technician at 1-800-685-5050 ext. 131.

Fisher Labs Customer Service
Fisher Research Lab
1465-H Henry Brennan
El Paso, TX 79936
915-633-8354 x152
[email protected]

If any of you personally know a service center who would make a copy (I'll keep it quite) I would appreciate it. I don't think that a request out of the blue would get anything but an NO answer. I may call a technician at Fisher and see how that goes.

Joe, I also have a 555D Pro and am looking forward to using it when the weather breaks here in the mountains of Virginia. I had two 555s years ago (the regular models, not the pros) and they were fine machines. In many instances I think they handle relic hunting better than the machines of today. I own a Whites MXT and a Garrett Ace 250 now.


With fingers crossed,
The General

 

[EasyMoney]

General I'm going to try to help you with the detector.

Try this.

Turn it on. Get it running and the threshold steady, laying on a TOTALLY metal-free bench at least 4 feet from any metal the size of a corn can lid, or larger. Remember, THIS is a Fisher!

Put it into discriminate mode, with it humming along..

Then tap your hand on the bottom of the coil. If there is no change in the noise in the speaker then there is probably no loose coil winding inside the coil casing. If the noise becomes harsh or broken up, the coil may have been dislodged, or just part of it. If all seems to be still the same after checking it for looseness, move on to this next step.

Wiggle both ends of the cable, at the box, and at the coil. If the sound changes, you may well have a bad or loose connection there.

Wiggle the discriminate knob or switch, or both. If it changes the noise coming out of the detector, you likely have a faulty or really filthy or corroded potentiometer (the discrimination dial), or a bad switch. It can be cleaned or replaced with a new (IDENTICAL) value pot or a similar switch.. If you elect to try to clean it after having found it to be faulty somehow, DO NOT use any oil-based spray cleaner in it, or you will really have a bad day and may wind up stabbing it right through the ten-ringer. Use ONLY the compressed air type you can buy at Rad Shack or TV repair shops.

Now, if the above does not solve the problem, then you will have to tap on the outside of the main component housing (the box). If this causes the detector to make any additional noise besides the threshold hum, you may very well have either a broken or cracked PC board, or a bad internal connection. Right now I'm thinking you have a bad discrimination switch or pot, either one, and that's because the all-metal mode is up and working but the split-off on the disc is not. It's all a process of elimination, just like diagnosing an old car or doing simple subtraction.

If none of all the above helps, then it is more-likely-than-not that you have a partially disconnected path to and from the discrimination pot, or high resistence somewhere near there. If so, then open the detector, get it up and running and laying on the bench in all-metal, and (g-e-n-t-l-y) tap on each and every electronic component and part with a plastic (NEVER METAL) piece of something about the shape of a handle on a Lady's hair comb, the size of around 6"X 1/4". This will allow you to locate any other changes in sound which can often help you locate where the partial or half connection is that you want to repair. Just tap here and there, especially where there are little connections or where there are little transformers with coil windings in them, they being about the size of 5/8" X 5/8". If you get any odd changes, you may well be on your way to fixing it, or showing a TV repairman where you discovered a possible fault.

If your hand being near the circuitboard but not touching it causes the threshold to drift, you may well have a bad or faulty condensor or capacitor somewhere in the vicinity.

The disc pot (may) be the likely culprit though.

Hope this helps.