How do I set up dredge punch plate/classifier?

U

Usaflaginmaine

Jr. Member
Aug 8, 2016
45
50
Maine
Detector(s) used
Minelab E-trac
Makro Gold Racer
Falcon MD20
Dahlke 2.5"
Bazooka Sniper
Angus Mackirk Outback
Primary Interest:
Prospecting
Hi friends. I'm wanting to set up this punchplate/classifier In the upper section of my dahlke dredge. Can anybody tell me how they are supposed to be set up? Suggestions on how to do it? IMG_20160818_171459431.jpgIMG_20160818_171512957.jpgIMG_20160818_171549312.jpg
 

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Is the Dahlke dredge line designed to run with a punch plate up there? The reason I ask is improperly configured punch plates have caused fluid dynamic problems which result in either scouring or plugging up of the sluice riffles. From what I can tell from your photos you set up looks pretty normal and should work pretty well. I like tinkering with different setups too and bottom line you will have to test, test , test to verify if your proto type is helping or hurting the performance of your individual dredge. It would be well worth your time to talk to the manufacturer to dial in your specific goals without venturing too far from the original design. good luck.
 

on the Dahlke the water comes in from the flair well above the first set of riffles, the cantor of the first three riffles is almost flat
so that section is like a hybrid drop riffle with the last riffle at only a slight cantor to keep the water flow going above
to one taller riffle then to the next set that are double sided riffles, the gap between each wont allow the larger rock in.
so it may throw everything off to put punch plate in this box. you can try it...

this is how I do it on my dredges with two hooks
in the front and lag bolts to support the end...
1save.jpg. 2save.jpg
 

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I tend to have larger rocks constantly getting hung up at this point so that's why I'm considering a punch plate....
 

I tend to have larger rocks get hung up in this section so that's why I'm considering a pinch plate.....
 

You don't want punch plate, especially not that tiny punch plate. Look for large guage 3/8 or 1/2 woven wire. You want to let the larger heavies like gold nugs, pickers, and lead to drop through along with most of the water. It should be setting above the riffles a little more then the diameter of the wire openings so that waste rock can keep moving out.

What you have there will prevent most water from dropping through, it will also prevent all large heavies and most of the fine gold from dropping. It will just wash right over the top and miss that first stage all together.
 

Jason in Enid said:
You don't want punch plate, especially not that tiny punch plate. Look for large guage 3/8 or 1/2 woven wire. You want to let the larger heavies like gold nugs, pickers, and lead to drop through along with most of the water. It should be setting above the riffles a little more then the diameter of the wire openings so that waste rock can keep moving out.

What you have there will prevent most water from dropping through, it will also prevent all large heavies and most of the fine gold from dropping. It will just wash right over the top and miss that first stage all together.
Click to expand...

Ok, so you're suggesting no punch plate?
 

like Jason said, the woven wire would be best
.
what I used on my 4" the photo is before I put in the riffles
DSC01498.JPG
 

Like has been suggested , go to a metal fabrication shop in your area or a scap yard and buy a chunk! Don't worry about stainless steel or anodized woven material , it will only raise the cost to you! Rust on the iron woven will be rubbed off quickly when you are running and getting the gold!
 

Love my punchplate the best and MILLIONS of tests for all my over/under dredges-mine and those 1,000s sold back in the day. Dahlke tiny dredges run mighty fine with that setup as he tried anything and everything in his 50+ year career RIP. TEST for yourself as scrap metal yards have wire for a buck or so and then you'll know what works best for you and your equipment. lots of luck-John
 

russau said:
Like has been suggested , go to a metal fabrication shop in your area or a scap yard and buy a chunk! Don't worry about stainless steel or anodized woven material , it will only raise the cost to you! Rust on the iron woven will be rubbed off quickly when you are running and getting the gold!
Click to expand...

Yes I love my little Dahlke and had the chance to speak with Bob a year before he passed. Good guy. Bought mine new this uear from the new owner. They added 3" to the bottom for better flotation. It definitely has caught me some good gold so far but concerned about the larger rocks scouring the upper section when they get hung up there..... Also added 3 sections of thin miners moss down towards the end under the riffles. Just haven't been seeing the fine gold like when i used to just sluice.
 

IMG_20160817_115235966.jpg
Also attached an Angus Mackirk drop riffle sluice to the end for hopefully a better recovery.
 

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I also tried the MM and found out that IF you didn't stop ,it worked fine ! BUT once you stop or slow down the Mm would lock up and when you restarted the MM would NOT let the black sand and the material for the most part unlock and ended up losing gold ! instead of MM for my dredge I went with some Veranda carpet by Shaw the John "Hoser' recommended to me. I really like the Veranda carpet over the Mm for my dredge. Im looking to buy some Gold Hog matting for my 4 inch dredge now. Just waiting for the flooding to stop here in the Mid-West!
 

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