Cosmo
Sr. Member
- Aug 22, 2013
- 253
- 369
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
It's about 21 inches. Can anyone I d the markings? Time period? Thanks
Help on a bayonet.
- Thread starter Cosmo
- Start date
Tejaas
Hero Member
- Sep 8, 2012
- 826
- 1,019
- Detector(s) used
- Garrett AT PRO ~ Propointer ~ Modified Lesche ~ Predator Little Eagle ~ Royal Picks ~ Marshalltown Trowels ~ Sift Tables/Screens
- Primary Interest:
- Relic Hunting
Easy!
That is a Japanese Type 30 Bayonet. Bayonets traditionally come with a hard sheath, known as a "scabbard"... or a leather slip, known as a "Frog".
The Type 30 is the most common bayonet Japan ever produced, manufactured by several different companies and designed to be universal- as the type 30 would actually fit every rifle Japan produced since 1897.
Your arsenal proofmarks show that it was manufactured by "Toyoda Automatic Loom Corporation"... this narrows its age down to being manufactured at the EARLIEST around 1937 (this is when TALC was founded).
If your Bayonet has a serial number present, it was paired with a Arisaka Bolt action military service rifle that saw action in World War II. I'd bet my life savings on it.
On a side note, if there is no serial number present on the Bayonet, it was used for training purposes.
FUN FACT: "Toyoda Automatic Looms Corp." is what you may now know as "TOYOTA MOTORS"
Yep, they've surely come a long way to produce the damn Prius! Hahaha!
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
That is a Japanese Type 30 Bayonet. Bayonets traditionally come with a hard sheath, known as a "scabbard"... or a leather slip, known as a "Frog".
The Type 30 is the most common bayonet Japan ever produced, manufactured by several different companies and designed to be universal- as the type 30 would actually fit every rifle Japan produced since 1897.
Your arsenal proofmarks show that it was manufactured by "Toyoda Automatic Loom Corporation"... this narrows its age down to being manufactured at the EARLIEST around 1937 (this is when TALC was founded).
If your Bayonet has a serial number present, it was paired with a Arisaka Bolt action military service rifle that saw action in World War II. I'd bet my life savings on it.
On a side note, if there is no serial number present on the Bayonet, it was used for training purposes.
FUN FACT: "Toyoda Automatic Looms Corp." is what you may now know as "TOYOTA MOTORS"
Yep, they've surely come a long way to produce the damn Prius! Hahaha!
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
Tejaas
Hero Member
- Sep 8, 2012
- 826
- 1,019
- Detector(s) used
- Garrett AT PRO ~ Propointer ~ Modified Lesche ~ Predator Little Eagle ~ Royal Picks ~ Marshalltown Trowels ~ Sift Tables/Screens
- Primary Interest:
- Relic Hunting
Afterthought:
From a collectors standpoint, it is not necessarily valuable, however if your grandfather or the like brought it back from the war it is a priceless heirloom.
My advice, breathe a little bit of life back into it! soak the frog in some saddle oil for 12 hours or so, pull it out and wipe it down. That will cause that leather to rehydrate and become supple again.
Use a BRASS wire brush and an abrasive like brake cleaner on the blade (paying attention not to get it on the handle!)then scrub it down with the brush, wipe it completely clean, then use a good coat of Rem-oil, Hoppes No. 9, or even 3-in-1 to prevent future corrosion.
Then use some fine sandpaper and some BLO (boiled linseed oil) on the wood. It will prevent cracking as the wood dries out, and will restore the original weatherproofing and color that the arsenal intended.
Depending on what your mechanical background is you may have all these items on hand, if not you could round up all the supplies from places like Lowes/ Home Depot and do it for like 15 bucks.
My 2 cents.
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
From a collectors standpoint, it is not necessarily valuable, however if your grandfather or the like brought it back from the war it is a priceless heirloom.
My advice, breathe a little bit of life back into it! soak the frog in some saddle oil for 12 hours or so, pull it out and wipe it down. That will cause that leather to rehydrate and become supple again.
Use a BRASS wire brush and an abrasive like brake cleaner on the blade (paying attention not to get it on the handle!)then scrub it down with the brush, wipe it completely clean, then use a good coat of Rem-oil, Hoppes No. 9, or even 3-in-1 to prevent future corrosion.
Then use some fine sandpaper and some BLO (boiled linseed oil) on the wood. It will prevent cracking as the wood dries out, and will restore the original weatherproofing and color that the arsenal intended.
Depending on what your mechanical background is you may have all these items on hand, if not you could round up all the supplies from places like Lowes/ Home Depot and do it for like 15 bucks.
My 2 cents.
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
Tejaas
Hero Member
- Sep 8, 2012
- 826
- 1,019
- Detector(s) used
- Garrett AT PRO ~ Propointer ~ Modified Lesche ~ Predator Little Eagle ~ Royal Picks ~ Marshalltown Trowels ~ Sift Tables/Screens
- Primary Interest:
- Relic Hunting
Anytime!
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
Sent from Tejaas' IPhone
Top Member Reactions
-
3322 -
1927 -
1917 -
1201 -
1093 -
866 -
820 -
817 -
810 -
787 -
775 -
533 -
499 -
477 -
425 -
424 -
419 -
E
417
-
403 -
395
