Got My New Scoop and CF Handle - Need Suggestions!

Terry Soloman

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May 28, 2010
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White Plains, New York
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Detector(s) used
Nokta Makro Legend// Pulsedive// Minelab GPZ 7000// Vanquish 540// Minelab Pro Find 35// Dune Kraken Sandscoop// Grave Digger Tools Tombstone shovel & Sidekick digger// Bunk's Hermit Pick
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Metal Detecting
I got my new Dune "Kraken" 11" x 8" Stainless scoop, and CKG carbon fiber handle. The pre-drilled hole in the handle does not line up (1") when I fully seat the handle in the scoop. Should I insert a dowl in the bottom of the handle and glue it, re-drill another hole? Should I use duct-tape or electrical tape to make up the play between handle and scoop? Suggestions?:skullflag:
 

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Upvote 0
The dowel might not be a bad idea assuming it wouldn't swell up and break the shaft. With or without the dowel, I think I'd be tempted to take a hack saw and cut a slot in the top of the scoop tube. Maybe as deep as the hole, but 90 degrees from it. Then wrap the shaft with a layer of electrical tape, seat the shaft all the way down, and then use a U-clamp where you made the cut to hold it in place. If you're familiar with what a vehicle exhaust pipe clamp looks like, something along that line, but, made of stainless if you can find one. Don't over-tighten. Just enough to keep the shaft from moving. You can always re-tighten later when it loosens up.
 

I'm no fan of carbon fiber. An arrow thing maybe... Splinters and fractures if abused and repeatedly stressed.

Anyways , your handle is an inch short when bottomed out?
There's a lot of ferrule there , maybe a plastic or nylon bushing dropped on the bottom to raise the handle cross hole height?

Not sure how to shim or build up the handle diameter for wet use.
Rubber , maybe tool handle coating (plasti dip or whatever it's called) or liquid electrical tape?

A plastic sleeve/bushing only at the top of ferrule would likely allow lower end to wobble still.
 

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Is there a solid plug inside the CF shaft? If so how far does it go in the shaft?
It may be better to drill another hole in the scoop and not the CF shaft to protect its integrity. scoop can be welded.
 

I bought the wooden dowel, and cut off the 3" length needed. I coated it in "Flex Seal," let it partially dry and inserted it inside the scoop, then hit it with the Flex Seal again. I then inserted the carbon fiber handle into the scoop fitting, over the dowel that slipped into the handle with a bit of force, lined up the pre-drilled hole and put the bolt through with washers. I used old guitar picks as shives filling that with the the Flex Seal as well. Ugly, but no play - Hooray! :skullflag:
 

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Should work, if not saw a guy on the beach that used thin wall copper plumbing pipe that fit over the CF and inside the scoop tube. Looked like this for a tub drain: Screen Shot 2020-12-22 at 7.36.35 AM.png

On mine, I used fiberglass drywall mesh tape to take up the slack enough to use this epoxy. 3M Scotch-Weld Acrylic Adhesive DP8410NS, Green, 45 mL Duo-Pak

Only other suggestion is the wood dowel, does it extend up past the scoop tube so the bending force is not just on the hollow CF handle? I plugged it past that point as several other builders do it.

Regards
 

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If it's not a near perfect fit to start with I've found that after some use they will start getting a little play and that annoys the crap out of me.
 

Nothing like a new toy for Christmas! Very NIce!
 

Try a “Chicago screw”. They are used alot in horse “tac”.
I looked them up on www and there also called a “sex bolt”?. Please dont quote me on that one but they are handy and can be a good fix for a smooth rivet feel thats easy to adjust when needed.
 

Well Mr. Soloman, I would say you are ready to play....Good Luck. Also, how much is a good scoop? I want one but not sure what might be the best features?? I would use it in lakes here in Michigan.
 

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Well Mr. Soloman, I would say you are ready to play....Good Luck. Also, how much is a good scoop? I want one but not sure what might be the best features?? I would use it in lakes here in Michigan.

I used an aluminum RTG (Reilly's Treasured Gold) for 8-years, but the nose of the scoop was finally worn away, and all my buddies were going to the stainless steel scoops with the carbon fiber handles to cut down on weight. A good scoop new starts at about $150.00 and goes up to around $350.00. My set up was $180.00 with tax and shipping, and then another $15 for the dowel, Flex Seal, and screw. :skullflag:
 

I used an aluminum RTG (Reilly's Treasured Gold) for 8-years, but the nose of the scoop was finally worn away, and all my buddies were going to the stainless steel scoops with the carbon fiber handles to cut down on weight. A good scoop new starts at about $150.00 and goes up to around $350.00. My set up was $180.00 with tax and shipping, and then another $15 for the dowel, Flex Seal, and screw. :skullflag:

You did good.
I also used the aluminum RTG , after using a stainless scoop I never looked back the sand slides out so easy and quick out of the stainless. No more emptying the scoop and it does not empty.
 

Wrap handle w waterproof duct tape or the like and make sure you have to pound the heck out of it to ensure a very tight fit. Cap off with a tap screw in already drilled hole and mark top of handle so you know location of scoop front then go detecting. Can't tell ya how many wood handles I've gone through in just past 5 yrs (4-6 I think) and even broke 2 RTG aluminum scoops in my line of detecting rocky shores, but the carbon fiber handle has provided me w countless hrs of MDing w/o a single break or even loose handle, per se, but on my second SS scoop so far. Happy Hunting
 

Thank you all for the great advice and suggestions! So here is what my Step Up looks like!
 

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If the shaft starts wobbling maybe get a bicycle innertube and slide it on the shaft to take up the gap.
 

Terry i use fiberglass shovel handles which of course already have a dowel.... so id recommend one. With one hole what i was finding the pulling and twisting id end up cracking the handle. 002.jpg This is what i ended up doing over the single hole.... SS Ubolt never had any movement since. But a dowel....yes id recommend it.
 

Terry i use fiberglass shovel handles which of course already have a dowel.... so id recommend one. With one hole what i was finding the pulling and twisting id end up cracking the handle. View attachment 1888788 This is what i ended up doing over the single hole.... SS Ubolt never had any movement since. But a dowel....yes id recommend it.

That's what I was recommending to Terry. With a carbon fiber handle, I'd wrap it in electrical tape to take up any slack, and cut a slot in the tube so it will compress evenly around the handle to hold it firmly without crushing it.
 

Terry, if your attempt to make up the gap wears out just take some West system epoxy and fiberglass cloth and glass up the area where it goes into the scoop. One layer of glass cloth will probably suffice and if it comes out a little too thick you can just sand it down to a perfect fit. I do this often building fishing rods, it isn't hard to do. I must say I am a little surprised the handle doesn't fit the scoop perfectly, many scoops are made to fit the handles perfectly, don't know why yours doesn't. If you glass it up it will last forever which no tape will do. You could also use carbon fiber cloth but it is harder to find than the glass which is sold at any marine supply shop. I have some 4" wide glass cloth around if you want it and if I can find it. You have to sand the shaft lightly to make a good surface for the epoxy to stick to and soak the epoxy fully into the glass cloth.
 

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Terry
If you do use duct tape make it the black industrial type. It’s better than the old grey type. Nice looking scoop.
 

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