getting better recovery on keene 151

[prospect007]

a few mods that will improve recovery on the keene blower type dry washers, or any other blower type brands.
welding is required!!
note; the front of the dry washer is the discharge of the sluice box
1) put 1/4" raised expanded metal in the first 4 riffles, this keeps the gold from moving to the sides and roll out to the next riffle.
2) the counter weight on the fan needs to be cut in 1/2 and moved inward until it's flush with the fan blade.
the weight is to far out from the fan when it is shipped from the factory, and is to heavy, causing the larger rocks to separate and build up on one side.
3) put a level (one with a sticky back) on the back of the sluice box and one on the hopper.
the level on the sluice needs to be attached after you have run some dirt and can see that the flow is even across the sluice (from side to side). the level on the hopper needs to be attached when the rocks just begin to slide off the screen.
4) attach 4 adjustable legs. I used 1 1/2"long x 4 of 1"square tubing, drilled a hole in the side and welded a nut to it, then welded the tubing to the frame of the dry washer. use 3/4"square tubing for the legs. I made one set 12" the other set18". then I used a bolt to tighten the legs at what ever height I needed that would allow me to level the machine.
5) don't run the blower motor at full speed, that just blows out the finer gold. 1/2 to 3/4 speed is more than enough.
6) the outlet on the hopper should be 1-1/2 times the size of the classifier screen. 1/2" screen 3/4" opening.
7) cut out the back of the hopper so it is even across the discharge opening, then attach a slide gate in that area, this will help from plugging up by raising and lowering , instead of beating on the machine.
8)attach a piece of rubber (like 1/4" belting) to the back of the sluice. this prevents the wind from blowing the dirt from the hopper discharge out of the sluice.
These mods have help me get better recovery and made leveling easier, sluice feed are more consistant with less plug-ups. I am able to run3-4 loosened yards a day by my self.
I hope these mods help you all as well. pospector007

 

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[KevinInColorado]

Prospector007, this is great stuff! I just got my hands on a Keene 151 and am looking forward to using it on a bench placer I've located (and may file a claim on). I've done LOTS of wet prospecting but am new to Drywashing and the Keene is a hand me down so I have a lot of learning to do. I've started reading old threads on tnet to learn as much as I can without asking repetitive questions and your posts are the most helpful I've found so THANKS!!

PS any tips on threads to read, YouTube videos to watch, etc?

 

[rodoconnor]

Kevin, get Jim staights "Follow the Drywashers". Very comprehensive. Read it 2 or 3 times . He answers every question. G/L

 

[KevinInColorado]

Kevin, get Jim staights "Follow the Drywashers". Very comprehensive. Read it 2 or 3 times . He answers every question. G/L

Ok, will do!

 

[prospect007]

kevin thanks. ive been dry washing for 20 years, jim straight was going to use my big dry washer (backhoe fed)In one of his books, don't know if he did though.
these mods are from experience, not just theory.

 

[KevinInColorado]

kevin thanks. ive been dry washing for 20 years, jim straight was going to use my big dry washer (backhoe fed)In one of his books, don't know if he did though. these mods are from experience, not just theory.

Great to have your expertise here on tnet, thanks again!

 

[prospect007]

another mod: the scissor legs that come with the keene, cut in 1/2 insert a 6' piece of tubing( smaller size than the frame )about 3" leaving 3" sticking out. weld the inserted piece, reassemble, then drill a hole through both tubes, weld nut to bottom insert long bolt. this saves space, and is much easier to transport. easy to assemble.

 

[prospect007]

the most important thing when dry washing is a constant feed, without overloading the sluice. the lack of dirt flow will blow gold out the box. the flatter the sluice the slower you have to feed and the sluice plugs up with black sand taking up the space that the gold is suppose to have. I set up with a steeper angle (around one link from the end of the chain), control the feed from the modified opening without having plug problems, and an even feed.
DO NOT put tape under the riffle to make a dead air space, all that does is plug the riffle causing loose of gold. that's an ameture move. (I"ve done it lol)
another thing: the books will tell you to rerun your dirt, you won't catch any more gold from that dirt unless you change angles of the sluice.

 

[KevinInColorado]

So I've read that I should rerun the dirt if it's a little damp to get a second drier run. Should I also flatten the riffle box angle a bit or what?

 

[prospect007]

flatten the sluice by 3 links, feed slower on damp material.
for consistant material use a rototiller to break up the dirt clods and liberate the gold.
work smarter not harder. lol
try to keep the blower out of the dust plum from the dry washer, you may have to move it several times during the run. clean the air filter every day.
when your done for the weekend blow out the sluice tray with compressed air, this will prevent the cloth from plugging up.
run a full tank of gas before you clean out the sluice. run volumes of dirt for best results ( 1/2-1yd) 30-5gal buckets is 1yd. for testing areas I run 1/2yd

 

[azblackbird]

run volumes of dirt for best results ( 1/2-1yd) 30-5gal buckets is 1yd. for testing areas I run 1/2yd

I was always under the assumption that 40 (5 gallon buckets) equal a yard of dirt.

 

[rodoconnor]

K , you'll find real soon that D/Wing suspiciously resembles actual work. Especially after being spoiled with BGT. It has it's rewards !

 

[KevinInColorado]

flatten the sluice by 3 links, feed slower on damp material. for consistant material use a rototiller to break up the dirt clods and liberate the gold. work smarter not harder. lol try to keep the blower out of the dust plum from the dry washer, you may have to move it several times during the run. clean the air filter every day. when your done for the weekend blow out the sluice tray with compressed air, this will prevent the cloth from plugging up. run a full tank of gas before you clean out the sluice. run volumes of dirt for best results ( 1/2-1yd) 30-5gal buckets is 1yd. for testing areas I run 1/2yd

Great advice, thanks! Can't wait for my first chance to try out the 151 in a week

 

[prospect007]

azblackbird, I've measured out 30 buckets to the yard, minus the rocks bigger than 2". so with the big rocks probably 40 buckets.
dry washing is lots of work. most people don't like the dust. try to set up with the wind blowing sideways to the dry washer and it's not so bad. usually it blows dust in your face. lol mother nature, just when everything is perfect she changes wind direction. lol
kevin, good luck , find some of the yellow stuff.

 

[Hard Prospector]

Great tips from prospect007
I would also like to add that if the area is known for the small fine stuff, your drywasher recovery will be much more efficient if you use a concrete tamp to bust up any hardened conglomerate, clay clods or cemented gravels AND classify down to 1/4" then run material. Nothing stirs up debate among drywashers then the subject of weather to classify or not and actually with me it depends on the production history of the district because sometimes I don't. The area that I've been drywashing lately is known mostly for fines with coarse gold rare and nuggets unheard of. Experience working this area has shown that the extra effort does result in a higher take. Another benefit of classifying down to 1/4" is that it makes setting the feed rate and recovery tray angle way easier and pretty much eliminates the small organics that love to get caught in the feed gate opening. I also lay out an old canvas tarp near my production area that I toss all 1/4" plus screened material which I eventually hit with my GMT. Good luck.....Rob

 

[elgatodelnoche]

I am thinking of putting a plexi or lexan shield over my DW riffle tray to keep from throwing dust. It would be like an upside down u and would start just below where the dirt feeds into the top riffle and extend slightly past the end of the riffle tray. Any comment pro or con on this?


When running my DW I try to classify down to one eighth of an inch.

 

[Hard Prospector]

I am thinking of putting a plexi or lexan shield over my DW riffle tray to keep from throwing dust. It would be like an upside down u and would start just below where the dirt feeds into the top riffle and extend slightly past the end of the riffle tray. Any comment pro or con on this? When running my DW I try to classify down to one eighth of an inch.

Interesting idea and should be an easy experiment just to see what happens. As far as dry classifying down to 1/8, I admire your dedication

 

[prospect007]

I used a dust shield on my big dry washer, I made hoops then covered them with clear plastic, it worked well. the height of the hoops were 8" above the sluice. there has to be some space for dirt lift. if that makes much since? if the air space that is under cover is to low it will cause the cloth to plug quicker.
hard prospector: your right, if you know the average size of gold in the area your working then classify to 1/4", this allows for better feed and recovery. if you have nuggets then bank run everything. detect your over size piles and the tailings piles just incase there was a surge across the sluice.

 

[Goodyguy]

I made a "drywasher poncho" to keep the dust contained on mine. Basically a clear plastic tarp with a retangular hole in the middle to fasten around the hopper. It drapes from the hopper all the way around the drywasher all the way to the ground. Easy to make and works great. Is held on to the hopper by spring clamps. On windy days put rocks on top of the bottom skirt to hold in place. If it's real windy you dont need to use it.




GG~

 

[prospect007]

another good mod: on the keene 151 dw the removable sluice tray always gets dirt between the tray and blower box. to fix this put weather stripping along the edge of the sluice against the blower box, that will stop the dirt and make the tray easier to remove.