Finally got my bazooka

crabtree

Jr. Member
Mar 4, 2012
42
36
Charleston, WV
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AT Pro
Primary Interest:
Prospecting

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nice home build
 

What metal did you use?

Looks like beautiful quality work!! :occasion14:
 

Gorgeous, I love it!!

How did you figure out a good hole pattern on the tubes? Going to start selling them?
 

Sweet Looking Box. Now for the test.
 

Just got back from testing it out in a creek by my house. Seems to work great. I meant to make some lead flakes and mix in a bucket of dirt but I forgot until I already out the door. Too bad the nearest gold is 2 hours drive away.

For the tube holes I just went by what others on the forum have had success with. There's even some insider tidbits tucked away deep in the abyss of threads on bazookas for those that's willing to dig deep enough. I've ordered the plastic for another. I learned a lot building this one and made plenty of mistakes that I should be able to avoid on the next one. If it proves to be durable and effective I may make some to sell. I'll most likely not take orders though. I've learned through my woodworking that being obligated somehow takes away from the fun of it.
 

Gorgeous, I love it!!

How did you figure out a good hole pattern on the tubes? Going to start selling them?

Access to an original zook, an inspection mirror on a flexible wand to determine number of holes and orientation, and various gauges of wire as probes to determine hole size would give him or anyone a reasonable approximation of the original specs. I might go one step further just in case and that would be to make the tubes replaceable for prototype building. An 0-ring on both ends could be used to seal it in the collection chamber then permanently seal when working to satisfaction.

Oops, just noticed he told us how he did it but maybe this will help him or others on future builds.
 

Last edited:
Just got back from testing it out in a creek by my house. Seems to work great. I meant to make some lead flakes and mix in a bucket of dirt but I forgot until I already out the door. Too bad the nearest gold is 2 hours drive away.

For the tube holes I just went by what others on the forum have had success with. There's even some insider tidbits tucked away deep in the abyss of threads on bazookas for those that's willing to dig deep enough. I've ordered the plastic for another. I learned a lot building this one and made plenty of mistakes that I should be able to avoid on the next one. If it proves to be durable and effective I may make some to sell. I'll most likely not take orders though. I've learned through my woodworking that being obligated somehow takes away from the fun of it.

I assume you used a table saw....how many toothed blade did you use?
 

One of the best looking home made bazooka on the internet!

How did you fix the grizzles upper end? Do you have pics?
 

One of the best looking home made bazooka on the internet!

How did you fix the grizzles upper end? Do you have pics?

On the lower slick plate I just have the ends cemented down with dabs of plastic. On the upper slick plate I drilled holes to house them. I was just eyeballing the bend angle on the bars and they came out a little inconsistent. That's why I tacked them down with the plastic. On the next set I'll make a jig to bend them accurately so both ends can go into holes.
 

I might go one step further just in case and that would be to make the tubes replaceable for prototype building. An 0-ring on both ends could be used to seal it in the collection chamber then permanently seal when working to satisfaction.
/QUOTE]

If you make the holes a compression fit there's no need for o-rings. I made a garbage trap sluice with a removable manifold and have no issues with "leakage" past the tubes either into the trap or out of it. I've yet to settle on a specific hole pattern or size for mine but changing the tubes for different conditions in the field is quick and easy.
 

WOW!!
Great home build. excited to see the gold it gets you.
Time to make the two hour drive for some field test.
 

On my model 4 bed, I'm using 1/2" cpvc pipe. When I drilled them, I used a UniBit step drill to drill through the 1/4" plastic. Since the UniBit only holds 1/8" before tapering up to the next size, I sink the taper and a little of the next size before flipping the piece and finishing the proper hole size. This gives a little pocket that can be filled with sealant, similar to an O-ring. Doing this gives a mechanically tight hole and also a water tight hole.

I don't know the thickness of the material being used, but if using 1/4" material, this method would work for easily replacable tubes for prototyping.
 

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