Excalibur 800 / 1000 / II Switches/pots available

[AngerManagement]

If any one is interested...

I have the Pots / Switches for the ML Excalibur series

These are a direct replacement and other than a bit of care when fitting/soldering in they require no mods.

The Volume and Discrimination pots usually come with no switch; but the ones I have do... So you get that tactile feedback for when you turn off or get to 0...

NO MD Manufacturer or other supplier has these.. And I assemble them at home...


I thought it only fair that others IN NEED should be aware that I may be able to help out; rather than binning a machine or having to buy a new MOB...

PM me for more info if you are looking for these switches/pots for the ML Excalibur range of Detectors..

 

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[AngerManagement]

A couple of pics that I forgot to post.

The bottem



The top of a Volume / Discrim pot



The top and bottom of the PP / Threshold / Sen Pot.




Top L/H is the only commercial one that is close. But the shaft is small in Dia and a few mm short. Thus you have to modify it.

The top 2 to the R/H are ML Originals....

The bottom 4 are the ones I assemble / make up. The shaft is a tad thicker as that allowed me to go deeper and slightly wider on the locating slot. This then allows a slight ease of tolerance when stripping down and re assembly. Without impacting on the shaft strength.

I do leave the switch on the other pots as I find teh tactile feedback as handy when in teh dark and not knowing if I have turned all the way down.



Trust this might help those that are in need or looking at a repair...

AM.

 

[AngerManagement]

I do have these up on e-bay, but I am happy to take a PM and maybe offer a special T?Net discount depending on quantity and postage..

 

[AngerManagement]

As to switches.... Lots jump on the band wagon as to the switches used on the Excal...

As a Bio med/Electronics and a Quality person; I like to review all faults and see what the root cause was. Hence I like to get the faulty ones and strip and reverse engineer as much as I can.

A: Physics is often forgotten by uses
C: Looks over functionality
D: Assumptions and lots of unfounded Utube and posts by people that have never fully investigated the fault/cause.


1: The collet on the Ml switch is a plastic for MANY good reasons. CON. Needs to be a better material as goes brittle.
2: All 3rd party the replacements I see; have SS or Brass or Copper collets. CON. Corrosion and RFI
3: 3D printing of said collet unit is crap... I have moulded some for my personal use, but would not sell as the Quality is not there.
4: 3rd party switches are often bigger and or have a section that allows easy of turning. CON. Excessive Torque and broken pots.

After stripping and even attempting to rebuild some faulty pots; I am happy to say that 99% of failures are of TWO main physical causes and a 3rd one for good measure.

### 3rd party knobs that make it much easier for the user to over torque when switching OFF or going to Max. Threshold and PP are teh most common affected.

*** Knocks on the top of the switches that then send a shock down the shafts and fracture the carbon tracks; which can cause jumpy response or total fail.

&&& Knocks from the side that then fracture the knob/switch spigot. This is often not noticed until water gets in and or a service is attempted and the spigot fractures. In addition, when a 3rd party knob corrodes on and people use force to remove it, the spigot can be damaged.

Thus my recommendation is as follows; Use the standard ML switches and contact ML to obtain the plastic collets AND use a suitable knob guard to restrict blunt force trauma to the knobs.

 

[AngerManagement]

HI ALL

I No Longer have any SPARE pots / switches for the Excalibur range of machines.

Sorry, but supply of said parts is no longer possible.

Thanks for looking