Deus Debut in Sea of Bottlecaps

[ggossage]

Spent most of the day in a well-hunted park and focused on two areas: 1) deep targets surrounded by moderate amount of bottlecaps and 2) 5-6 inch targets in a sea of bottlecaps. I scored two dimes and two pennies in area #2; the remaining penny was found in area #1. In area two, I enabled XY Vis and was able to scoot across the ground a little faster, and was very helpful in eliminating obvious trash. I got some pretty clear/straight lines on the coins I dug. I know I shouldn't rely on it, but it was helpful. Hope to see it more accessible in a future release.


Since this was my first day out with the Deus, I promptly disregarded all sage advice about using a preset
I settled on 4K for most of the hunt; it was much quieter and I was better able to identify all those deep-ish, old, rusty bottlecaps. I definitely figured out the sound difference between the coins I found and the bottlecaps....but that it took a while, and I dug plenty of 'em. I'm not sure I could distinguish between them and a quarter though. Every single coin I dug today either had a bottlecap or a nail in the same hole, and close by and consequently they brought the TID (VDI) down some. All coins were in the 60s before being uncovered and then changed to their normal reading above ground.


I used the following settings because of the caps:


Disc 5
4K (TX 3)
React 3 / Silencer 2
Notch 00-25
Sens 83
Sound 2
Iron Vol 2
Manual GB 78
5 tones


The park I was in was low mineralization, so I kept the GB low and sens lower.


A few questions if anyone has the time to respond:


If one uses pump to GB, after it's complete, is it supposed to revert back to manual? (When complete, the highlight bar goes to manual GB).


When saving a program, does it take an unusually hard press of the button to answer yes to replace the previous program? It often took me 2 or 3 times to get it to save...and even made the mistake of holding the button down too long and powered off the remote. Right now I'm only using the plastic protector that came with the remote.


I use the WS-5 headphones; I like them. However when I pulled them off today, one of the cups fell off and looks as though it'd be easy to do it again. Anyone had to fasten that down some how?


Coming from a White's machine, it's taking a lot of getting used to in order to avoid large iron at depth. I didn't use the pinpointer--maybe I should?

 

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[sleepyjim]

Nice post, great sharing...........

I think the GB reverts back so you can adjust the pumping, so if pumped gets 80 you can adjust it from thaT POINT TO RUN HOTTER OR WHATEVER.....(oops caps lock, sorry).

All my buttons are hard to press, seen other posts and it is normal......

Headphones do not seem correct to me and I would not be happy and seek a replacement from my dealer......

On iron (signals), here is a couple post from another place that may help you:

"When you start getting a lot of iffy and chopped signals, many times those will be coins or other non-ferrous items co-located within iron. Remember that raising reactivity will effectively "chop" a good signal into more and more of a "chirp". A good way to demonstrate this is to air test a couple coins and listen for the signal difference. The TONE will be exactly the same with reactivity = 0 vs reactivity = 5, however the "signal length" will be much shorter. Once you get more familiar with iron "bleed through" you can lower silencer settings as well - are you using Iron Volume at 1 or higher?

I hunted an area in reactivity = 3 a month or so back and thought I got most of the goods. Then I had a thought about reactivity and sweep speed - revisited the site and turned reactivity up to "4" and SLOWED down the sweep speed - and managed a couple more Wheats and a Buffalo nickel. Some people will tell you that slowing the sweep speed will have the same effect as lowering reactivity, which is partly true in my experience. If you go too slow, iron will try to bleed through, but for the most part you will be able to pull additional goodies. Low silencer settings are important for getting that slight extra depth with reactivity at 3 or higher.

It may take a few hours to get used to the audio signals within trash, but once you get it down your finds will drastically increase and you will find yourself revisiting old sites and picking winners!

Another good idea to eliminate the deeper and rusted iron is to try out a 4 kHz program - this spreads out the VDI a little more (make sure ID normalization is OFF) and provides slightly increased max detection depth for copper and silver coins. The tradeoff is that 4 kHz isn't as sharp and concise as using 8 kHz and 12 kHz in the trash, but most of the time there's no mistaking a "dig me" signal over the background chatter."

"The word "chopped" is somewhat loaded, and to some folks it implies "interrupted". So instead of thinking of it as interrupted, clipped, or somehow cut off, think of it in the following way. I am going to make up the following durations, so they are not reflective of reality, but it's to help illustrate the point. Pretend that
* At reactivity = 0, the tone lasts for 1 second and that reflects the processing speed
* At reactivity = 1, the tone lasts for 0.6 second
* At reactivity = 2, the tone lasts for 0.4 second
* At reactivity = 3, the tone lasts for 0.2 second

So at reactivity = 0, if you sweep over a target , and within 1 second of that target you go over a second target, you won't hear it. The duration of the tone reflects the first target. At reactivity 3, that 2nd target would be heard if it was far away from the first target that the 0.2 second tone from the first target was completed.
As you increase reactivity, what allows you to separate targets also makes the duration of the tone shorter. So yes, to many folks those shorter duration tones sound clipped or chopped, particularly relative to slower reactivities. I know I struggled with it somewhat at the beginning because those shorter tones didn't give my brain enough time to process. I actually learned better at reactivity = 1, and began to recognize certain tones. So when I bumped up reactivity to 3, I was able to recognize those tones, even with a much shorter duration. "

For rusty bottle caps try this: "What I've used is the "drag back method".
Once you find a "good" target swing in small sweeps back and forth as you drag the coil back off the target.
As the coil leaves the target you will hear the tone break up and grunt on the bottle caps.
It will stay solid and drop off sharply on good targets.
This method work most of the time for me.."



Happy Hunting!

Jim

 

[Dave Rishar]

If one uses pump to GB, after it's complete, is it supposed to revert back to manual? (When complete, the highlight bar goes to manual GB).


When saving a program, does it take an unusually hard press of the button to answer yes to replace the previous program? It often took me 2 or 3 times to get it to save...and even made the mistake of holding the button down too long and powered off the remote. Right now I'm only using the plastic protector that came with the remote.


I use the WS-5 headphones; I like them. However when I pulled them off today, one of the cups fell off and looks as though it'd be easy to do it again. Anyone had to fasten that down some how?


Coming from a White's machine, it's taking a lot of getting used to in order to avoid large iron at depth. I didn't use the pinpointer--maybe I should?

1. Mine does that. I think it's intentional for the reason already mentioned. On most sites around here, I like to run manual a point or two over the value that pumping gives me. This keeps the machine stable while allowing for slight variances in the ground that I might not catch due to my attention being focused elsewhere momentarily. (I really want to like auto, but I don't like the way that it wants to "balance out" targets.)

2. As has been mentioned, the buttons are always hard to push, particularly with gloves on. Some folks use their fingernails but mine are generally too short. If you look at a picture of a fingertip bone, you'll see that there's a little knob at the end. People generally push buttons more with the pad of their finger than the tip, but this doesn't work well with the Deus. Try to use the tip. Imagine "stabbing" the button with the end of you finger instead of merely pushing it. It took me a few outings before I could push the buttons properly. The upside of this arrangement is that it's basically impossible to accidently push a button.

3. I can't answer that as I use the backphones.

4. I do like to use the pinpointer on deep targets. For anything at less than 6" or so, or where there's enough nearby stuff to possibly confuse the discriminator, I simply "wiggle off" to pinpoint.

 

[ggossage]

Thanks for such a detailed response!

Nice post, great sharing...........

I think the GB reverts back so you can adjust the pumping, so if pumped gets 80 you can adjust it from thaT POINT TO RUN HOTTER OR WHATEVER.....(oops caps lock, sorry).

Great! Thanks to you and Dave.

All my buttons are hard to press, seen other posts and it is normal....
Hmm, I may just cut the fingertip off of one of my gloves.

Headphones do not seem correct to me and I would not be happy and seek a replacement from my dealer......
I decided on a fix that I made--I started a new thread.

On iron (signals), here is a couple post from another place that may help you:

"When you start getting a lot of iffy and chopped signals, many times those will be coins or other non-ferrous items co-located within iron. Remember that raising reactivity will effectively "chop" a good signal into more and more of a "chirp". A good way to demonstrate this is to air test a couple coins and listen for the signal difference. The TONE will be exactly the same with reactivity = 0 vs reactivity = 5, however the "signal length" will be much shorter. Once you get more familiar with iron "bleed through" you can lower silencer settings as well - are you using Iron Volume at 1 or higher?

I hunted an area in reactivity = 3 a month or so back and thought I got most of the goods. Then I had a thought about reactivity and sweep speed - revisited the site and turned reactivity up to "4" and SLOWED down the sweep speed - and managed a couple more Wheats and a Buffalo nickel. Some people will tell you that slowing the sweep speed will have the same effect as lowering reactivity, which is partly true in my experience. If you go too slow, iron will try to bleed through, but for the most part you will be able to pull additional goodies. Low silencer settings are important for getting that slight extra depth with reactivity at 3 or higher.

It may take a few hours to get used to the audio signals within trash, but once you get it down your finds will drastically increase and you will find yourself revisiting old sites and picking winners!

Another good idea to eliminate the deeper and rusted iron is to try out a 4 kHz program - this spreads out the VDI a little more (make sure ID normalization is OFF) and provides slightly increased max detection depth for copper and silver coins. The tradeoff is that 4 kHz isn't as sharp and concise as using 8 kHz and 12 kHz in the trash, but most of the time there's no mistaking a "dig me" signal over the background chatter."

"The word "chopped" is somewhat loaded, and to some folks it implies "interrupted". So instead of thinking of it as interrupted, clipped, or somehow cut off, think of it in the following way. I am going to make up the following durations, so they are not reflective of reality, but it's to help illustrate the point. Pretend that
* At reactivity = 0, the tone lasts for 1 second and that reflects the processing speed
* At reactivity = 1, the tone lasts for 0.6 second
* At reactivity = 2, the tone lasts for 0.4 second
* At reactivity = 3, the tone lasts for 0.2 second

So at reactivity = 0, if you sweep over a target , and within 1 second of that target you go over a second target, you won't hear it. The duration of the tone reflects the first target. At reactivity 3, that 2nd target would be heard if it was far away from the first target that the 0.2 second tone from the first target was completed.
As you increase reactivity, what allows you to separate targets also makes the duration of the tone shorter. So yes, to many folks those shorter duration tones sound clipped or chopped, particularly relative to slower reactivities. I know I struggled with it somewhat at the beginning because those shorter tones didn't give my brain enough time to process. I actually learned better at reactivity = 1, and began to recognize certain tones. So when I bumped up reactivity to 3, I was able to recognize those tones, even with a much shorter duration. "

For rusty bottle caps try this: "What I've used is the "drag back method".
Once you find a "good" target swing in small sweeps back and forth as you drag the coil back off the target.
As the coil leaves the target you will hear the tone break up and grunt on the bottle caps.
It will stay solid and drop off sharply on good targets.
This method work most of the time for me..

All extremely useful information! Thank you very much! I'll put some of it to practice this afternoon.



Happy Hunting!

Jim

 

[ggossage]

1. Mine does that. I think it's intentional for the reason already mentioned. On most sites around here, I like to run manual a point or two over the value that pumping gives me. This keeps the machine stable while allowing for slight variances in the ground that I might not catch due to my attention being focused elsewhere momentarily. (I really want to like auto, but I don't like the way that it wants to "balance out" targets.
Based on what I've read so far, I'm also a little afraid of auto GB...this is the tracking mode correct?

2. As has been mentioned, the buttons are always hard to push, particularly with gloves on. Some folks use their fingernails but mine are generally too short. If you look at a picture of a fingertip bone, you'll see that there's a little knob at the end. People generally push buttons more with the pad of their finger than the tip, but this doesn't work well with the Deus. Try to use the tip. Imagine "stabbing" the button with the end of you finger instead of merely pushing it. It took me a few outings before I could push the buttons properly. The upside of this arrangement is that it's basically impossible to accidently push a button.

Thanks Dave--I think I'm going to nip off the tip of my glove for easier access.

3. I can't answer that as I use the backphones.

4. I do like to use the pinpointer on deep targets. For anything at less than 6" or so, or where there's enough nearby stuff to possibly confuse the discriminator, I simply "wiggle off" to pinpoint.Using pinpointer on deep targets--does that allow you to distinguish between coin-sized and larger, trashy targets? I'm getting used to the wiggle off method...it certainly is a change. This also allows you to check for iron masquerading as silver as SleepyJim mentioned.

​Thanks a ton!

 

[Bart@Big Boys Hobbies]

This is a great thread! Jim, on the reactivity speed, where are you getting this info at?

 

[sleepyjim]

This is a great thread! Jim, on the reactivity speed, where are you getting this info at?

PM sent

Jim

 

[Joe hunter]

Thanks for sharing this information

 

[TreasureMtnDetectors]

Great Info Jim!

 

[timmysys]

2. As has been mentioned, the buttons are always hard to push, particularly with gloves on. Some folks use their fingernails but mine are generally too short. If you look at a picture of a fingertip bone, you'll see that there's a little knob at the end. People generally push buttons more with the pad of their finger than the tip, but this doesn't work well with the Deus. Try to use the tip. Imagine "stabbing" the button with the end of you finger instead of merely pushing it. It took me a few outings before I could push the buttons properly. The upside of this arrangement is that it's basically impossible to accidently push a button.

I use Deus for waterhunting many time, with waterproof aquatec plastic case. I wear thick scuba gloves then, it's a hard to push the button situation too.
I put small silicone rubber bumpers to the buttons. ( Like uses include Kitchen Cabinets, Doors, Drawers for protection and noise reduction on closing.)

Easily palpable, protect the plastic case and makes it easy to push the buttons.

 

[ggossage]

I use Deus for waterhunting many time, with waterproof aquatec plastic case. I wear thick scuba gloves then, it's a hard to push the button situation too.
I put small silicone rubber bumpers to the buttons. ( Like uses include Kitchen Cabinets, Doors, Drawers for protection and noise reduction on closing.)

Easily palpable, protect the plastic case and makes it easy to push the buttons.

View attachment 999283

Very useful! I'm going to try this! Thanks Timmy!

 

[Dave Rishar]

I use Deus for waterhunting many time, with waterproof aquatec plastic case. I wear thick scuba gloves then, it's a hard to push the button situation too.
I put small silicone rubber bumpers to the buttons. ( Like uses include Kitchen Cabinets, Doors, Drawers for protection and noise reduction on closing.)

Easily palpable, protect the plastic case and makes it easy to push the buttons.

View attachment 999283

That is freaking brilliant. I'm going to give this a try myself. Thanks for the tip!

 

[ggossage]

Here's my mod; I'll put it to use tomorrow and report back. I didn't use any adhesive other than what comes with the silicone bumpers. I hope they stay attached in hot and humid weather because pressing the buttons with gloves on is a snap now!

 

[timmysys]

Be sure, the bumpers they stay . I used same method on my Fisher F70, three years ago. All bumpres stayed on there.

 

[ggossage]

I was out 6 hours with mine today--no problems at all, and it was a relief to 1) find the buttons without looking at them and 2) not have to press hard. Excellent suggestion Timmy--working for me! Even if they do fall off (which I doubt), I have spares :-)

 

[timmysys]

Great little things.
Happy to help.