Detector stand - improved wheelbase

[Charlie P. (NY)]

When I added the Sunray FX-1 pinpointer to my F75 detector I would invariable topple the works over when pinpointing. I set about to come up with a simple and light stand that would allow me to see the display when pinpointing (and keep the display off the ground).

I came up with 4" of 1" poplar dowel, two pieces of 5/16" dowel and 1" of 3/16" dowel plus an 11" cable-tie. Minwax walnut stain and shellac, plus I got fancy and put a bolt-boot over each of the dowel feet. Weight: 1/3 ounce. The 3/16" stub fits in an existing shaft length adjustment home and the cable-tie is figure-of-eight wrapped around the shaft and stand. No alterations to the detector.

Today was the first "in-the-field" trial and it worked great.

 

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[Charlie P. (NY)]

Side shots:

 

[jb7487]

Stain AND shellac?!? Wow! You really like to do things right. This is one case where I would have agreed with the masses and gone with cheap PVC. But then again I don't have the patience for wood working.

Nicely done.

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Cheap PVC? Not when I don't have any PVC laying around but I had all kinds of dowels, wood finishes and time. You'll notice I even fluted the main body for "lightening" and visual effect.

If it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

 

[Ray S ECenFL]

Nice job.

Did you get it right on the first try? ( cutting/drilling the angles?)

Ray S

 

[Charlie P. (NY)]

Mostly. The angles are 45º and that was pretty easy to set on the drill press. I had to "work" one hole a bit with a chainsaw file. The dowels had enough bend that it hardly matterred. I cut them long, set the detector on a cement floor and measured for height so it was on a four-point stance. The only tricky work was the inside upper parts that I cut in a razor saw mitre-box to fit tight against the main shaft. Also 45º.

I build model airplanes and this was pretty straightforward compared to bending and soldering cabane struts for an upper wing job and getting all four to end up on the same level.