CZ 20 Coming-a few QUESTIONS please

[GTzer]

Have a CZ 20 coming with an option to return it.
I have 5 questions below that I could really use some help with ASAP.

 

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[GTzer]

CONDENSED- updated Version
Fisher CZ 20 on the way. Seller gave me an option to return it. Seller only used it in water 1 time- no leaks. He was the 2nd owner.
My criteria for final sale is-must arrive intact, be completely functional and watertight (to wade depth of 5) I want to prep it and take it to the saltwater.
I have never used a Fisher or any water MD. SO I am only familiar with the info I have read on the net & the 2 MD sites I where I am a member.

Aware from reading- potential leak sites-battery door (cracks from over tightening),gaskets,silicon grease use, Face plate-PP button & LED.

QUESTIONS please.

I could accept & deal with a possible leak in the battery compartment. But I need for it to last through the test.
1) Will I be able to see possible cracks-with a magnifier & bright light? Is there any can I temporarily seal those so I can test the unit?

Silicon the gasket-read it many times. I will apply it a described in many of the threads Ive read here. (Light coat and make sure its seated properly.)
2) BUT why does Manual state not to use silicon grease?[/SIZE]

Read of sealing the PinPoint button (and LEDs) and then NOT using the PP (use detune to PP).I will try it once to make sure it works then I will NOT use it again. Fine with me-BUT the manual indicated using the PP for tuning or GB.
3) SO can you Ground Balance/ Tune without using the PP with the Auto tune feature?
4) What material should I use to seal the PP & LEDs? I would like to use a temporary material to test the unit. Then a permanent material if it passes.

Upgrades-I cant afford that now and I would only do that if necessary. If it passes my criteria its a done deal. SO I read many different things about the upgrade to a 21. They cant fix a CZ 20 so you must upgrade.
5) So do you wait for total failure for this repair/upgrade or is there a way to determine that it will be necessary?

Abbreviated answers are fine. Ill keep reading AND I will call the company to ask about the upgrade. Still I value the info I read here and ANY input .
Thank you,
GTzer

 

[GTzer]

Could really use some help- especially with questions 1&4 so i can test this unit.

 

[Sandman]

I already answered your concerns with this.
HH.
Sandman

 

[GTzer]

Yes Sandman you did-THANK YOU very much for you time & advice. (and even from the wrong area that i posted it in). This includes all of the info that you have provided from the threads that I've read going back years.

From your reply--what type of silicon sealant? Some types are also considered an adhesive (like the type I used when installing cable & phone lines through exterior walls)
I will apply a coat to PP,LEDs, around the face plate and I would apply a thin film on the battery door. I want this to work & pass my 1 shot at testing it for being watertight. How about the coil & earphone connections?
Also-the manual says to NOT use the silicon grease on the battery gasket.
Your confirmation that i can tune -not using the PP was very helpful. I will check the feature-seal it and never use it again.

Still I would welcome any & all input from this great site.

 

[Sandman]

The grease Silicone that is used on the gasket is the grease divers use and so do photographers for the underwater camera o rings. It is not the silicone sealant that you use on your walls. Tesoro ships a small tub of the grease with the water detectors and you can find it in good hardware stores and divers supply dive shops. A small tub should last you for years.

I applied some silicone sealant to the coil connector at the coil and don't think it needed it. Just wanted to be careful. The connection at the control box shouldn't be touched as that is tight and tested at depth of way over 10 feet like the cheap water detectors. Like I said, I dove with the 1280, Tiger Shark, Excal and CZ-20 to over 140 feet and never a leak. Only finger tighten the battery door on the CZ20. I doubt you will see any cracks and if you do, a coat of sealant will fix that.

I applied a coating of silicone sealant to the PP rubber button to protect if from any leaks just in case the rubber deteriorates.

The manual states not to use silicone grease on the gasket because guys are stupid and think Vaseline is the same thing and cheaper. Fisher wanted to make it idiot proof as much as possible.

 

[GTzer]

Thanks again Sandman.
I find the best sealant I can. (for the PP,LEDs ,the sides of the faceplate and even for a thin coat on the battery door (removed and left to dry).
I'll probably do the coil connection, leave the control box (per your info)

How about the headphone connections?

For the gasket- I wouldn't use a petroleum product like vaseline. After cleaning I may use some silicon grease.

 

[Sandman]

I never added anything to the headphone connection on the CZ-20. Never felt the need to as it is sealed at Fisher. If hunting in the wind, I add some duct tape to the drain holes in the headphones.