st louis hunters dad
Newbie
- May 26, 2007
- 3
- 0
I have heard several members talk about soaking the coins in
oil, what type of oil do you use.
oil, what type of oil do you use.
cleaning coins
- Thread starter st louis hunters dad
- Start date
st louis hunters dad
Newbie
- May 26, 2007
- 3
- 0
- Thread starter
- #2
Thanks nick
my son started, detecting and talked me in to buying a detector. Now i think that i have become addicted. I have found
alot of dirty coins clad and dont think the bank will take them in
the state they are in.
mike
my son started, detecting and talked me in to buying a detector. Now i think that i have become addicted. I have found
alot of dirty coins clad and dont think the bank will take them in
the state they are in.
mike
goldencoin
Gold Member
- Sep 27, 2005
- 5,669
- 446
- Detector(s) used
- Whites DFX & Beach Hunter ID
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
st louis hunters dad said:
You can still give them to the bank as "damaged coins" and they will send them off to the mint to be melted down and made into new coins
HH
-GC
Gulfcapt25
Jr. Member
Hey,
If you want to clean clad seperate the pennies from nickels,dimes, and quarters. Put them in seperate containers. Fill up each container with vinegar until it covers the coins then add a table spoon of salt to each. Shake it up, and let it sit, then shake it up untill they are as clean as you want them. This method works great for clad, I wouldnt do this with a valuable coin. John
If you want to clean clad seperate the pennies from nickels,dimes, and quarters. Put them in seperate containers. Fill up each container with vinegar until it covers the coins then add a table spoon of salt to each. Shake it up, and let it sit, then shake it up untill they are as clean as you want them. This method works great for clad, I wouldnt do this with a valuable coin. John
R
robert roy
Guest
>>>>I don't think the bank will take them<<<<<
That was my concern too when I took them to my local Chase Bank. They took them, no problem.
Now, what about this vinegar? What is that about? ANd let them sit for how long? I don't think I ever heard of this trick before.
Robert Roy
That was my concern too when I took them to my local Chase Bank. They took them, no problem.
Now, what about this vinegar? What is that about? ANd let them sit for how long? I don't think I ever heard of this trick before.
Robert Roy
R
robert roy
Guest
Re: cleaning coins:I found this on the internet.
I went to Google and typed in: Cleaning Coins with vinegar and found lots of material including this:
Introduction
Serious practitioners of numismatics (the study and collection of coins, paper money and medals) will tell you that you shouldn't clean your coin collection because collectors prefer that "natural look." But, hey, they're your coins and if you want them shiny, here's how to get them that way with minimal damage.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate
Steps
1Step OneHandle coins by the edges to avoid putting fingerprints on the flat surfaces.
2Step TwoAvoid silver and other metal polishes - even jewelry polishes. They are much too harsh and will leave tiny scratches on the coin's surfaces.
3Step ThreeSoak the coins in olive oil or soapy water for a few days and then rinse them well with clean water.
4Step FourTry non-abrasive cleaners such as denatured or isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (with water) if the soaking doesn't do the trick.
5Step FiveBlow dry or pat cleaned coins with a soft cloth, not tissues or paper towels.
6Step SixNever rub the coin - unless it's your good luck charm.
Tips & Warnings: Be extremely careful if your coins are old. If you mess up, you could seriously decrease the coins' value. Consider taking them to a professional.
Tarnished coins are better left as they are. Collectors call it "toning" and it's a desirable look.
I went to Google and typed in: Cleaning Coins with vinegar and found lots of material including this:
Introduction
Serious practitioners of numismatics (the study and collection of coins, paper money and medals) will tell you that you shouldn't clean your coin collection because collectors prefer that "natural look." But, hey, they're your coins and if you want them shiny, here's how to get them that way with minimal damage.
Instructions
Difficulty: Moderate
Steps
1Step OneHandle coins by the edges to avoid putting fingerprints on the flat surfaces.
2Step TwoAvoid silver and other metal polishes - even jewelry polishes. They are much too harsh and will leave tiny scratches on the coin's surfaces.
3Step ThreeSoak the coins in olive oil or soapy water for a few days and then rinse them well with clean water.
4Step FourTry non-abrasive cleaners such as denatured or isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (with water) if the soaking doesn't do the trick.
5Step FiveBlow dry or pat cleaned coins with a soft cloth, not tissues or paper towels.
6Step SixNever rub the coin - unless it's your good luck charm.
Tips & Warnings: Be extremely careful if your coins are old. If you mess up, you could seriously decrease the coins' value. Consider taking them to a professional.
Tarnished coins are better left as they are. Collectors call it "toning" and it's a desirable look.
Gulfcapt25
Jr. Member
Hey Robert,
This trick is actually pretty neat. I like to put them in 2 seperate gatorade bottles. Fill with vinegar (I use white vinegar) just until it covers the coins add a tablespoon of salt and shake Let sit for a little while then shake again. You can see a diference almost instantly, I do it for about 30 min. Just shake and let sit. Make sure you dont put the pennies with any other coins, beauce you nickels, dimes and quarters will change to the same color as the pennies. Give it a try. John
This trick is actually pretty neat. I like to put them in 2 seperate gatorade bottles. Fill with vinegar (I use white vinegar) just until it covers the coins add a tablespoon of salt and shake Let sit for a little while then shake again. You can see a diference almost instantly, I do it for about 30 min. Just shake and let sit. Make sure you dont put the pennies with any other coins, beauce you nickels, dimes and quarters will change to the same color as the pennies. Give it a try. John
R
robert roy
Guest
Re: cleaning coins:More info if your interested
Cleaning Coins
Coin Cleaning Rules | Cleaning Different Coin Types | Cleaning Coins Process | Drying Coins
The first rule of coin cleaning is: If you don't know its value, don't clean it, or if you think it is valuable, don't clean it, or if you know it is valuable, don't clean it. In other words, do not clean your discovered coins; leave them untouched and stored in proper holders. The reason for this is that coin dealers and collectors are interested in purchasing coins in their original condition and natural state of preservation.
For example, never clean coins with commercial jewelry and metal polishes or silver tarnish remover, which will remove the toning that normally collects over time on copper and silver coins. Removing tarnish often harms coins, leaving small spots, scratches, or pockmarks that can significantly diminish their numismatic value by up to 90 percent! Statistically, nearly 20 percent of coins shown to coin dealers are rejected because they were improperly cleaned, polished, or their toning was chemically enhanced. Remember, you cannot unclean an improperly cleaned coin.
This first rule leads us to the Obligatory Disclaimer: The material shown here is for research purposes only. The information remains "as is" and "with all faults." The user assumes all risk of use, damage, or injury. You agree that we have no liability for any damages nor are we liable for any consequential, incidental, indirect, or special damages. You indemnify us for claims caused by you.
Coin Cleaning Rules
The second rule of cleaning coins is take your coins to a professional do the cleaning. Professional dealers often offer a coin cleaning service using a method called "dripping" that should not be attempted by an amateur. Always handle your coins by the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surfaces.
The third rule of cleaning is, if your coins are so corroded that the date and details cannot be determined, consult a professional for advice before attempting to clean the coins to avoid or minimize possible damage.
The fourth rule is, if you absolutely, positively must clean your discovered coins, you should clean them with the least harmful method that will give the desired results. Remember that excessively dirty or spotted coins, if not cleaned within a reasonable length of time, can eventually corrode and become damaged beyond repair. After selecting the method you will use, you should experiment on low-value coins before cleaning high-value coins. Do not be tempted to use harsh chemicals, vinegar, sulfuric acid, abrasive pastes, polishing cloths, metal brushes, rock tumblers, rotating tools, or impact devices which can result in smooth, shiny, metal slugs.
The fifth rule is, if you know a coin you are selling has been cleaned, you must disclose that fact to the buyer
Top
Cleaning Different Types of Coins
UNCIRCULATED COINS
Never clean a Proof or Uncirculated coin as doing so will invariably introduce minute hairline scratches and ruin any mint luster. If there is dust on the surface, use a photographic squeeze-bulb air blower to remove it.
GOLD COINS
Gold coins, when first struck, are a bright yellow-orange color. Over a long period of time, copper and other trace elements alloyed with gold cause it to tone to a deep orange color, possibly with light brown or orange-brown streaks. Light toning does not affect the value of a gold coin.
Being of a "noble metal" that doesn't itself react chemically with its environment, gold coins are not likely to discolor during cleaning although a centuries-old tone could be removed. Wash carefully in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water with a fluffy cotton washcloth or very soft toothbrush. Because gold is softer than silver, be careful even when using a soft toothbrush for cleaning, as any grit present it will make minute scratches on the surface.
CLEANING SILVER COINS
Silver coins, when newly minted, have a bright silvery-white surface. A chemically active metal, silver tends to tone deep brown to black. Circulated silver coins will often have a dull gray appearance, sometimes with a deep gray or black area. Silver coins acquire a blue, green, or violet oil-like tone through tarnishing that can enhance the appearance and desirability of an old silver coin and should not be cleaned.
Many collectors will not buy silver coins that look as if they have been cleaned. When tarnish becomes dark brown or black, and a coin's design is hard to see, there may be some desirability to cleaning it using non-harsh methods, but never with an abrasive paste or cloth.
Clean dark silver coins with ammonia, vinegar, rubbing alcohol, lemon juice or polish remover with aceton. Allow coins to soak in a container of the liquid until any dirt or encrustation has been dislodged.
Air-dry or pat them dry with a soft, clean cloth. Do not rub or polish. This may scratch the surface of the coin and will remove metal from the coin's surface. Any wear or scratches will decrease the value of your coin!
Note that silver coins can oxidize rapidly, especially in the presence of sulfur, such as is found in paper products. Some oxidized toning can be desirable but black silver coins are not. Only store your coins in proper containers, such as 2-inch by 2-inch sulfur-free envelopes available at coin dealers.
Learn how to Clean Silver Coins by Electrolysis.
Top
CLEANING COPPER COINS
Copper is among the most chemically active of all coinage metals. When a copper coin is first struck it has a brilliant pale orange surface and turns brown when circulated.
Copper coins tend to look worse after being cleaned and are more easily ruined than gold or silver coins. When absolutely necessary, clean dirty, green crusted, badly corroded copper coins without scrubbing them. Try soaking them in grape oil (or olive oil if grape oil is not available).
Some results can be obtained in one to four days, but don't be afraid to wait several weeks, months, or even a year for desired results. Remember, some of the green patina may be desirable in a copper coin. Although not so much a problem in Colorado, the prudent collector in a humid climate does not collect red copper coins which oxidize badly. Even in Colorado, it is wise to keep a desiccant in proximity to brown copper coins to absorb air moisture. Every six months, check your copper coins and stroke them with a soft camel's hair brush, such as is used on photographic lenses.
Another way to clean copper coins, use a product (available from any good coin supplier) called MS70. Use rubber gloves, this stuff will dry out your skin. It is safe, but if whatever is on the coin is stubborn, the coin can be soaked for days and even weeks in the MS70. You may use a soft toothbrush that will not harm the coins surfaces to remove the dirt in the devices and continue soaking. When you are satisfied with the coin's appearance, neutralize the MS70 from the coin with baking soda and warm running water. Dry the coin thoroughly and then apply a coat of Blue Ribbon coin cleaner and preservative, and let it dry for several days (or as long as it takes). Wipe any excess off with soft cotton balls, and store in safe cardboard 2 x 2's with the clear centers (use the ones that staple shut, not the self stick, that glue dries out and may not be safe). Make sure that the supplier tells you that the 2 x 2's you bought from him are safe. If the coin is somewhat discolored, you can use Dellar's Darkener after the soaking in MS70. Wipe any excess off and let it dry for days, or as long as it takes so that no more can be removed from the coin with a cotton ball. Use this before the Blue Ribbon until the coin is satisfactory to you. The Blue Ribbon is a cleaner also, and may remove some of the darkener, but the end result will be a beautifully clean and conserved coin for your collection.
Top
NICKEL COINS
Nickel coins, when first minted, are dull silver in appearance, not as bright as silver. Circulated nickel coins have a gray appearance. Nickel coins are best cleaned with clean, warm, soapy, distilled water and a soft toothbrush. For stubbornly stained nickel coins, ammonia, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water, has been used successfully.
Learn how to Clean Nickel Coins by Electrolysis.
STEEL COINS
Steel cents actually rust in the presence of humidity. Although difficult to store properly, "steelies" were made in such large quantities that they are never likely to become rare.
Top
Cleaning Coins Process
If you have decided to clean your coins, clean them the same day they are discovered to prevent corrosion from continuing to build.
A first cleaning step for any coin may be to soak it for a few minutes and wash it in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in a plastic container, using a mild liquid dishwashing soap and a very soft toothbrush. This may be all that is necessary. To make your soapy solution, use one tablespoon dishwashing liquid soap to a pint of water in your plastic container. Remember that metal containers can cause galvanic action of dissimilar metal alloys and will damage your coins!
Accumulated dirt and grime can usually be safely removed from a coin with the application of petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) to both sides using a cotton-tipped swab (such as a Q-tip). Carefully remove the residue with clean swabs and finish with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Isopropyl or denatured alcohol is another non-abrasive cleaner that can be used in place of grape or olive oil. Never, however, use baking soda for a cleaning rub; baking soda may make a coin shinier, but will almost always ruin the coin's numismatic value.
A good example of corrosion that should be removed is Polyvinylchloride (PVC), a chemical found in older plastic coin holders that over time leaves a green, adherent, acidic, sticky, slightly scummy, scuzz discoloration on coins. This scuzz can spread so it is best to remove it as soon as possible using an organic solvent. One such organic solvent is acetone. You must adhere strictly to the warnings shown on the container, as a solvent such as acetone (found in nail polish remover) can be dangerous. Organic solvents can be used to remove tape or adhesive residue.
Some archeologists, professional coin dealers, and metal detecting hobbyists have used ultrasonic tanks that use ultrasound waves to agitate the clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in which coins are immersed. Sound waves are more gentle than even a soft toothbrush.
Expensive, specially made, commercial coin cleaning agents are available at coin shops. These cleaners should only be used as a last resort. You should never put gold coins into jewelry cleaner. Neither should you should dip silver coins in silver dip or polish them.
Learn how to Clean Coins by Electrolysis.
Top
Rinsing and Drying
After cleaning any coin, rinse it with distilled water, not tap water, which contains minerals that may leave spots on the coin. Some people suggest adding a final rinsing in isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
Dab or pat rinsed coins partially dry with a soft, lint-free cloth, then allow them to air-dry without touching each other on a soft cloth without rubbing, which can cause minute scratches.
Cleaning Coins
Coin Cleaning Rules | Cleaning Different Coin Types | Cleaning Coins Process | Drying Coins
The first rule of coin cleaning is: If you don't know its value, don't clean it, or if you think it is valuable, don't clean it, or if you know it is valuable, don't clean it. In other words, do not clean your discovered coins; leave them untouched and stored in proper holders. The reason for this is that coin dealers and collectors are interested in purchasing coins in their original condition and natural state of preservation.
For example, never clean coins with commercial jewelry and metal polishes or silver tarnish remover, which will remove the toning that normally collects over time on copper and silver coins. Removing tarnish often harms coins, leaving small spots, scratches, or pockmarks that can significantly diminish their numismatic value by up to 90 percent! Statistically, nearly 20 percent of coins shown to coin dealers are rejected because they were improperly cleaned, polished, or their toning was chemically enhanced. Remember, you cannot unclean an improperly cleaned coin.
This first rule leads us to the Obligatory Disclaimer: The material shown here is for research purposes only. The information remains "as is" and "with all faults." The user assumes all risk of use, damage, or injury. You agree that we have no liability for any damages nor are we liable for any consequential, incidental, indirect, or special damages. You indemnify us for claims caused by you.
Coin Cleaning Rules
The second rule of cleaning coins is take your coins to a professional do the cleaning. Professional dealers often offer a coin cleaning service using a method called "dripping" that should not be attempted by an amateur. Always handle your coins by the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surfaces.
The third rule of cleaning is, if your coins are so corroded that the date and details cannot be determined, consult a professional for advice before attempting to clean the coins to avoid or minimize possible damage.
The fourth rule is, if you absolutely, positively must clean your discovered coins, you should clean them with the least harmful method that will give the desired results. Remember that excessively dirty or spotted coins, if not cleaned within a reasonable length of time, can eventually corrode and become damaged beyond repair. After selecting the method you will use, you should experiment on low-value coins before cleaning high-value coins. Do not be tempted to use harsh chemicals, vinegar, sulfuric acid, abrasive pastes, polishing cloths, metal brushes, rock tumblers, rotating tools, or impact devices which can result in smooth, shiny, metal slugs.
The fifth rule is, if you know a coin you are selling has been cleaned, you must disclose that fact to the buyer
Top
Cleaning Different Types of Coins
UNCIRCULATED COINS
Never clean a Proof or Uncirculated coin as doing so will invariably introduce minute hairline scratches and ruin any mint luster. If there is dust on the surface, use a photographic squeeze-bulb air blower to remove it.
GOLD COINS
Gold coins, when first struck, are a bright yellow-orange color. Over a long period of time, copper and other trace elements alloyed with gold cause it to tone to a deep orange color, possibly with light brown or orange-brown streaks. Light toning does not affect the value of a gold coin.
Being of a "noble metal" that doesn't itself react chemically with its environment, gold coins are not likely to discolor during cleaning although a centuries-old tone could be removed. Wash carefully in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water with a fluffy cotton washcloth or very soft toothbrush. Because gold is softer than silver, be careful even when using a soft toothbrush for cleaning, as any grit present it will make minute scratches on the surface.
CLEANING SILVER COINS
Silver coins, when newly minted, have a bright silvery-white surface. A chemically active metal, silver tends to tone deep brown to black. Circulated silver coins will often have a dull gray appearance, sometimes with a deep gray or black area. Silver coins acquire a blue, green, or violet oil-like tone through tarnishing that can enhance the appearance and desirability of an old silver coin and should not be cleaned.
Many collectors will not buy silver coins that look as if they have been cleaned. When tarnish becomes dark brown or black, and a coin's design is hard to see, there may be some desirability to cleaning it using non-harsh methods, but never with an abrasive paste or cloth.
Clean dark silver coins with ammonia, vinegar, rubbing alcohol, lemon juice or polish remover with aceton. Allow coins to soak in a container of the liquid until any dirt or encrustation has been dislodged.
Air-dry or pat them dry with a soft, clean cloth. Do not rub or polish. This may scratch the surface of the coin and will remove metal from the coin's surface. Any wear or scratches will decrease the value of your coin!
Note that silver coins can oxidize rapidly, especially in the presence of sulfur, such as is found in paper products. Some oxidized toning can be desirable but black silver coins are not. Only store your coins in proper containers, such as 2-inch by 2-inch sulfur-free envelopes available at coin dealers.
Learn how to Clean Silver Coins by Electrolysis.
Top
CLEANING COPPER COINS
Copper is among the most chemically active of all coinage metals. When a copper coin is first struck it has a brilliant pale orange surface and turns brown when circulated.
Copper coins tend to look worse after being cleaned and are more easily ruined than gold or silver coins. When absolutely necessary, clean dirty, green crusted, badly corroded copper coins without scrubbing them. Try soaking them in grape oil (or olive oil if grape oil is not available).
Some results can be obtained in one to four days, but don't be afraid to wait several weeks, months, or even a year for desired results. Remember, some of the green patina may be desirable in a copper coin. Although not so much a problem in Colorado, the prudent collector in a humid climate does not collect red copper coins which oxidize badly. Even in Colorado, it is wise to keep a desiccant in proximity to brown copper coins to absorb air moisture. Every six months, check your copper coins and stroke them with a soft camel's hair brush, such as is used on photographic lenses.
Another way to clean copper coins, use a product (available from any good coin supplier) called MS70. Use rubber gloves, this stuff will dry out your skin. It is safe, but if whatever is on the coin is stubborn, the coin can be soaked for days and even weeks in the MS70. You may use a soft toothbrush that will not harm the coins surfaces to remove the dirt in the devices and continue soaking. When you are satisfied with the coin's appearance, neutralize the MS70 from the coin with baking soda and warm running water. Dry the coin thoroughly and then apply a coat of Blue Ribbon coin cleaner and preservative, and let it dry for several days (or as long as it takes). Wipe any excess off with soft cotton balls, and store in safe cardboard 2 x 2's with the clear centers (use the ones that staple shut, not the self stick, that glue dries out and may not be safe). Make sure that the supplier tells you that the 2 x 2's you bought from him are safe. If the coin is somewhat discolored, you can use Dellar's Darkener after the soaking in MS70. Wipe any excess off and let it dry for days, or as long as it takes so that no more can be removed from the coin with a cotton ball. Use this before the Blue Ribbon until the coin is satisfactory to you. The Blue Ribbon is a cleaner also, and may remove some of the darkener, but the end result will be a beautifully clean and conserved coin for your collection.
Top
NICKEL COINS
Nickel coins, when first minted, are dull silver in appearance, not as bright as silver. Circulated nickel coins have a gray appearance. Nickel coins are best cleaned with clean, warm, soapy, distilled water and a soft toothbrush. For stubbornly stained nickel coins, ammonia, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water, has been used successfully.
Learn how to Clean Nickel Coins by Electrolysis.
STEEL COINS
Steel cents actually rust in the presence of humidity. Although difficult to store properly, "steelies" were made in such large quantities that they are never likely to become rare.
Top
Cleaning Coins Process
If you have decided to clean your coins, clean them the same day they are discovered to prevent corrosion from continuing to build.
A first cleaning step for any coin may be to soak it for a few minutes and wash it in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in a plastic container, using a mild liquid dishwashing soap and a very soft toothbrush. This may be all that is necessary. To make your soapy solution, use one tablespoon dishwashing liquid soap to a pint of water in your plastic container. Remember that metal containers can cause galvanic action of dissimilar metal alloys and will damage your coins!
Accumulated dirt and grime can usually be safely removed from a coin with the application of petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) to both sides using a cotton-tipped swab (such as a Q-tip). Carefully remove the residue with clean swabs and finish with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Isopropyl or denatured alcohol is another non-abrasive cleaner that can be used in place of grape or olive oil. Never, however, use baking soda for a cleaning rub; baking soda may make a coin shinier, but will almost always ruin the coin's numismatic value.
A good example of corrosion that should be removed is Polyvinylchloride (PVC), a chemical found in older plastic coin holders that over time leaves a green, adherent, acidic, sticky, slightly scummy, scuzz discoloration on coins. This scuzz can spread so it is best to remove it as soon as possible using an organic solvent. One such organic solvent is acetone. You must adhere strictly to the warnings shown on the container, as a solvent such as acetone (found in nail polish remover) can be dangerous. Organic solvents can be used to remove tape or adhesive residue.
Some archeologists, professional coin dealers, and metal detecting hobbyists have used ultrasonic tanks that use ultrasound waves to agitate the clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in which coins are immersed. Sound waves are more gentle than even a soft toothbrush.
Expensive, specially made, commercial coin cleaning agents are available at coin shops. These cleaners should only be used as a last resort. You should never put gold coins into jewelry cleaner. Neither should you should dip silver coins in silver dip or polish them.
Learn how to Clean Coins by Electrolysis.
Top
Rinsing and Drying
After cleaning any coin, rinse it with distilled water, not tap water, which contains minerals that may leave spots on the coin. Some people suggest adding a final rinsing in isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
Dab or pat rinsed coins partially dry with a soft, lint-free cloth, then allow them to air-dry without touching each other on a soft cloth without rubbing, which can cause minute scratches.
Gulfcapt25
Jr. Member
Please not this vinegar method is just for cleaning clad before you take it to the bank. No valuable coins, there are different methods for that. John
R
robert roy
Guest
Gulfcapt25
Your useing the Ace 250? How long have you had it.
Have you down any relic hunting with it?
Robert R
Your useing the Ace 250? How long have you had it.
Have you down any relic hunting with it?
Robert R
Gulfcapt25
Jr. Member
Hey Robert,
I have had the Ace 250 for almost 3 weeks now. To be honest I just hunt for anything I can find actually. I have found about 14.00 in clad so far, and one gold locket,and Several keys etc. Im at the point where I am really starting to feel comfortable with this detector. I have only been to one playground in my area, there is just so many coins there its hard to find anything else. John
I have had the Ace 250 for almost 3 weeks now. To be honest I just hunt for anything I can find actually. I have found about 14.00 in clad so far, and one gold locket,and Several keys etc. Im at the point where I am really starting to feel comfortable with this detector. I have only been to one playground in my area, there is just so many coins there its hard to find anything else. John
R
robert roy
Guest
Cool/cleaning
Gulfcapt25
Cool!
Its a fun detector to say the least. I have some pet peves about it but it is a good detector. I also have an MXT I like to take out and am considering the F4 down the road after Tax time. I may investigate the T2 as well and see if there is really much difference between the two.
Regards
Robert Roy
Gulfcapt25
Cool!
Its a fun detector to say the least. I have some pet peves about it but it is a good detector. I also have an MXT I like to take out and am considering the F4 down the road after Tax time. I may investigate the T2 as well and see if there is really much difference between the two.
Regards
Robert Roy
ScrewcapRoy
Sr. Member
I also wondered about cleanning my clad and stumbled on John's method with the vinegar and salt. Let me tell you it works great. I use a coffee can put them in the solution and shake for about 30 seconds. Most all come out looking new. I then put them in a strainer and run tap water over them to get the vinegar and salt off. But do keep the pennies seperate. Thanks for the tip John.
HH Roy
HH Roy
Gulfcapt25
Jr. Member
Hey Roy,
Im glad you like that method. I learned it several weeks from another member. I wish I could remember his/her name so I could give them the due credit. John
Im glad you like that method. I learned it several weeks from another member. I wish I could remember his/her name so I could give them the due credit. John
gallileo60
Hero Member
- Apr 30, 2007
- 971
- 84
- Detector(s) used
- AT Pro, Bounty Hunter Land Star, Ace 250, Garrett 1350
- Primary Interest:
- All Treasure Hunting
Re: Cool/cleaning
Robert how do ya like the MXT compared to the Ace 250 on depth..Thanks, Tom
robert roy said:
Robert how do ya like the MXT compared to the Ace 250 on depth..Thanks, Tom
Ray S ECenFL
Silver Member
Live and learn. Never have heard of the vinegar and salt method before. That is why I like T-Net, lot of great folks willing to share information.
I normally use a rock tumbler on clad. I have been lucky in that the few older coins that I have found were in good shape and did not need much cleaning.
My thanks to all of you for a ton of great information.
Now, all I have to do is find a valuable coin to test out the cleaning methods....
Happy Hunting.
Ray S
I normally use a rock tumbler on clad. I have been lucky in that the few older coins that I have found were in good shape and did not need much cleaning.
My thanks to all of you for a ton of great information.
Now, all I have to do is find a valuable coin to test out the cleaning methods....
Happy Hunting.
Ray S
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