Cheap Detectors

[beerbarrel]

I have read alot of respones to newcomers wanting to buy a metal detector and asking "What Should I Buy?"
Some of the replies are "Don't Buy a Cheap Machine" This to me, in my opinion, can be very confusing to a newcomer. What constitutes a "Cheap" machine? To all newcomers, I would suggest reading the responses to Strike It Rich's question of CHEAP OR EXPENSIVE MD TO START, posted June 30th in General Discussion Section.
My hat goes off the guys who responded to this post. They have accurately answered the question, "What Should I Buy" Please read their respones, as they are responding based on their experience, knowledge and years of metal detecting. I am sure they would be happy to help you in anyway possible. Again, I want to praise and thank you for all the help you have given. NOW! All of you newcomers, contact these guys, get you a detector and go find that "pot of Gold"


Beerbarrel

 

Amazon Forum Fav 👍

A Handbook of Civil War Bullets and Cartridges - Grab it through Amazon!

[Jack(IN)]

I think the only way you use a "cheap" detector(lets say under $100.00) is for nothing but tot lots! Some decent $200 detector out there and would be so much better than a detector that would frustrate a person and not allow them to enjoy a good hunt! Just my opinion!

 

[spez401]

This is a question that has been asked countless times. the general consensus is that the "cheapest" (money) machine you should get is around $200 bucks. Typically, anything less than that (say around $100), typically are not well made, nor will they find much. When you talk cheap (quality) stay away from non-name brands and obviously shoddy work.

Most will not argue that probably the best "cheap" detector is the ACE 250. Priced around $200 (ive seen them as low as $179), it is a truly quality machine, that most new users, and quite a few older ones, swear by. If you're considering buying the "radio shack special" for $100 bucks, save the extra hundred and get an ace.

If money isn't an object, then go with what you can afford... pick the features you like etc, and shop around them. There are lots of machines in the $300-$600 range that are excellent in quality, features, and "finding power". There are also several in the $700 to $1200 range that are great machines. It all boils down to what you want/need in a detector. If your budget is $300... then don't look at the $1000 machines... they're out of your price range. But, if your budget is $500... you may want to consider saving up a little more money and getting a $600 machine based on its performance, reliability, features, customer support, etc.

I have said it before... when you start detecting, you will very likely get hooked on this hobby. spend the money to get what you want, and not necessarily what you can afford. If you spend $150 on a bounty hunter, then upgrade to an ACE 250 because you don't like the BH... you just spent $350. Spend the little extra first... and don't waste your money on an inferior item that you will almost definitely replace.
steve

 

[beerbarrel]

Fantastic Answer Steve! This is what I have been wanting the newcomers to hear from someone who has the knowledge. I have been detecting, off and on since the early sixties. I will be the first to tell anyone, I am far from being an expert. This is the reason I started this post is to give the newcomers a chance, on what to consider on buying their first detector. This is why I suggested that they read the post I referred to. It is people like you, on this forum, who in my opinion, would be more than happy to give them the advice and experience they need in buying a detector.

beerbarrel

 

[mastereagle22]

While I am a realative newbee I wish I would have read Steve's answer before I bought my first MD. While there is nothing wrong with the Deleon, I have found a lot of stuff with it, I really wanted an MXT or XLT and now after two months with the Deleon I am finding that I should have bought what I really wanted to start with. I was penny wise pound foolish! I am now saving for a DFX and I will not buy anything other than that (Not saying the DFX is the perfect machine but having used one it is what I want). I will keep using my Deleon and I will NOT sell it when I do buy a DFX but I do wish I had the $350 I spent on it because I would now have enough to buy and use the DFX. I will tell any newbee at MDing what I tell my computer customers. Get your budget and then add at least an additional 20-30% to that budget and buy what that will get you. That way you will get just a little more than what you wanted to buy usually and you will find that as you grow in experience you will learn to use the extra features a little extra $$ can buy. Hope it was okay for me to respond.

 

[strike it rich]

What great advice especially from steve If only I had Asked before buying never mind Iam hooked and intend getting a much better machine.

 

[dahut]

Add this, too

Believe it or not, which detector to buy is only one of your issues. It is the most talked about, yet in my opinion, is the least of your worries. Most any detector from a major maker in the $200-$300 price range will give you years - yes, years - of fun, dependable service. I know that tends to kill the joy of endlessly wrangling over which is best, but is't fact.

Okay, so now that I've said it, let me back it up. Just WHAT are these other things you need to concern yourself with, if not a detector? Glad you asked! Here they are in list form.
This is the stuff you learn the hard way - or wish someone would have told you in the beginning. Now you dont have to wait for either.

Good Hunting, my friend.

"Dahut's Secret Tips to Success...for Newcomers"

1. Equipment is NOT the answer.
Ouch, that one hurts! The more crucial element in all this is MINDSET. We tend to be techno-dependent, expecting gadgets to do all things for us, right? Well, guess what? People were finding treasures before detectors came along. The difference is they knew what to look for and had some idea where to find it. You do the same. Do buy a quality detector, then consider it merely the means to an end. As I like to say, "Know Before You Go."

2. Dig, man dig!
You wont find anything if you don't and you won't learn what your machine is telling you, either. Your goal is to become an object recovery specialist, not a locating expert.

3. DO NOT rely on that meter or display.
There is a mountain of hype that claims this detector or that detector can tell "trash from treasure." DO NOT believe it - that stuff exists to sell detectors. There is A LOT of junk out there and much of it masquerades as good stuff. You will find trash and plenty of it, so develope a cavalier attitude to it early on. See, TIP #2 .

4. Turn that Sensitivity down!
Dont expect to find stuff halfway to China, as most good things are within the first FOOT, usually less.
That's the Good News.
Here's the Bad News: SENSITIVITY (gain) increases cannot "suck in" what isn't there to start with. Rather, gain that is set too high only results in false signals, erratic behavior, major frustration and can actually lessen your detectors performance.

5. Set time limits.
a. Plan to detect for a certain amount of time, as often as possible. Like any activity, good practice makes you better.
b. DO NOT detect longer that you should - set a limit on that, too. Remember you have a job and a family and friends.

6. Set Recovery Goals.
A certain coin or artifact, a certain number of coins/day, etc. Then work to achieve your goals.
Some say that this is "just a hobby and goals are for work." DO NOT believe that, either. That is minimalist crap. Achievement and success at anything is utterly dependent on your ability to push yourself beyond the simple things, past the easy frontiers.

7. Carry your detector with you as much as possible.
You never know when a chance to detect will come along. But dont leave it in your car, longterm - EVER!! We're talking about sensitive, costly electronic instruments here.The heat and jostling is murder on them and thieves know what they are worth, too.

8. Learn about your area and what you might actually find.
Do a little research about every possible place you might consider detecting, from the local park to vacant lots. It does no good to take your detector to a barren parking lot. I tried it once...I'm right, trust me on this one.
Here's an example, repeated all over the world. The park in my city was once an old home place, then a housing area through the 50's and now a modern park. The old coins and stuff are NOT where the modern play grounds are - and few know it but me. Get the point?

9. Talk to your friends and family about your new hobby.
Include the strangers you meet too, like folks in the checkout line or ban tellers. Ask if they know any old places, or good modern places, where lots of people have been active.
Make up some simple personal introduction cards on your computer, naming you as "Joe Schmoe, Detectorist." People respect credentials and being an ambassador of the hobby will open doors for you.
P.S. DO NOT call yourself a "treasure hunter." For many, the word 'treasure' evokes all sorts of images - some of them bad for your image. Dont get that started.

10. Plan to do all sorts of detecting.
You are new and this hobby has lots to offer. Dont imagine yourself only "this sort" of detectorist or "that sort." Try it all.

11. Learn the Detectorists Code of Ethics.
And practice good recovery techniques, ALL THE TIME. Few things will sour you on this hobby like being ticketed for leaving holes behind you or getting busted on private property. I learned this last one the hard way, at the wrong end of a shotgun - don't repeat my mistake

12. Get a durable carry bag at the thrift store and keep these things in it:
+ Extra headphones - A broken set of phones will ruin any hunt. Folding digiphones are perfect for this.
+ Extra batteries for your unit(s)- Likewise, a set of dead batteries is a real fun-buster.
+ 2 Digging Trowels - NOT the crap from WalMart's garden section, either. Get strong purpose built tools.
+ An inexpensive sand sifting scoop. There are an amazing number of easy-digging sandy spots to hunt. You'll thank me for suggesting this one.
+ 1 recovery apron - Most home centers sell nail aprons for a $1. They'll do.
+ 1 10" probe - I make mine from a 3/16" piece of brazing rod and a section of old broom handle. Use this to probe for coins beneath the turf.
+ 1 10" long screwdriver - for "popping" the coins you probe from the turf.
+ 1 8-10", solid-tang hunting knife - Just plain useful. Cuts roots, plugs in grass, etc.
+ Garden gloves - ones you can manage dextrous work in.
+ Super glue and duct tape - you don't need this explained, right?
...You can have more but you'll need these things, sooner or later.

BONUS TIP #13: Determine to Have Fun!
copyright, DDH/Dahut, 2006

 

[diggummup]

Great post dahut! Nothing to add other than that.

 

[mastereagle22]

Amen (hope I don't offend anyone with this)!

 

[BobPA]

Great answer Steve.
Bob

 

[lFoundlInlOhiol]

I use a Wallmart bought MD ''Bounty Hunter 505! cost me(380.00)Ive found 1800 coins / civil war items/ old skeleton keys/ etc etc ..Dont let the price get to ya ...It works 4 me!! good luck

 

[Ricardo_NY1]

I tend to look at it this way.............in many hobbies, there is always the really expensive stuff and the inexpensive stuff. I believe you can have fun with both. Using fishing as an example, because I have so many hobbies, I do not dedicate too much of my money on a single one, therefore, I fish with a $20 cherrywood rod and a $40 Shimano reel. I save myself the hype of spending mucho dinero on the "Senkos" and instead buy the similar but reasonably priced stick-o's. I gaurantee you I will have many photos of good bass every season that comes. With that said, there are the $150 rods and $300 reels. You can't catch nothing on 'em if you do not have the knowledge or motivation. Here in NYC, I know of a poor bastard that fishes with an empty soda can and some line attached to it.......this SOB is serious competition and his casting skills with that damn rig are as precise as can be. I should film him in action. I know there are people out there with a $100 discovery 2200 or similar digging and learning their butts off who are going to make more and better finds than the person who is confident that alot of money spent means more finds are going to come knocking on the coil and who spend more time online or the couch instead of where the goods are. What other angle can I personally view this when in two months of detecting, I found 3 silver coins and other goodies with a $50 Discovery 1100? Luck, I doubt it. More like putting the money I spent to its full use and enjoying the hobby. You can buy a detector, but you can't buy yourself dedication, motivation, patience or the will to reach your goals. Those need to be in place and in my opinion are what will make a succesful hunt today and for years to come.

 

[mastereagle22]

My daughter went out with me today for a little while with Her Discovery 1100 and found a dime a penny a huge copper nut, a zipper pull, and a name badge that I lost back in 1985 in the front yard of my old house. She is having a lot of fun with her machine and I got a GREAT deal from Ricardo_NY1 on this machine. BTW we were in Lake of the Ozarks the past week and an Arcade there called Miner Mike's had a cheap little detctor and my 2 year old wants a "tecker" really bad so we got it for him and he found a penny in a gravel parking lot with it!

 

[BioProfessor]

This is a cheap detector:

FIVE FUNCTION METAL DETECTOR

Buried treasure is just a step away! Affordable metal detector can easily find coins and other valuables. Perfect for locating nails in wood, survey spikes, pipes and more.

Features three distinctive sounds for different metals. Requires six AA batteries to operate. Built-in battery tester.

* Functions: Ferrous metal indicator, tune adjuster, one-touch auto-tone, battery test, volume control
* 6-1/2’’ coil
* 15-1/2’’ to 28-1/2’’ adjustable stem
* 1/8'' earphone jack

ITEM 43150-0VGA

$39.99

Daryl

 

[Monty]

Having a cheaper (read less expensive) detector is better than having no detector at all. With the less than $250.00 machines you can get in most all the coin shooting you want. And believe it or not, you can really learn a lot about how to use that more expensive machine from your practice with the inexpensive one. Monty

 

[gallileo60]

Amen (hope I don't offend anyone with this)!

If you do, dont even worry about it....No one should be that touchy....

 

[rommelvon]

I'll add my experiance in this stew.....I bought a whites prizmIII and have had this machine one week, in that week I have found approx 25 dollars in coins, a nice indian head penny, part of a silver bracelet, numerous pull tabs, foil packs, cans, wire and other junk, and this detector cost me 300 bucks, I have found it very accurate on coin ID and have dug dimes at 6 inches on dirt and at 8 on beach sand, now , much like my first car, I will drive it for a while,and then upgrade. I have found my favorite spots to be the park the tot lot and around benches, the beach, at the pier and in front of hotels that are on the beach, I havent done much homesite hunting because of the snakes, ticks and skeeters, but they are in my target for fall....as others have said, get a detector thats in your budget,but don't buy the cheapest one you can find----HH

 

[Baggins]

For me, I just went to Ebay a while back and bought a used BH Tracker IV and only paid about $65 for it... I have only been detecting for about a year...I plan on getting a better machine in a few months...I have had a great amount of luck with the machine, and would advise beginners to go with a less expensive machine just to get the feel for it, and once they do, can graduate up to a more expensive model...tough to justify paying too much just to get discouraged and have the machine end up being an expensive coat rack....Just my two cents.
Baggins