Any teachers out there?

First Suggestion, Read as Much as you can here.

Second Suggestion. IF You have Decided what detector your Getting, Let us Know So

Those that are Familiar with That Detector Can give you Suggestions.


WELCOME !

Jeff
 

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The short answer is, anywhere that people are active and gather. Or, places where people have lived, camped spent large amounts of time. Historically old places where people have been going or living for many years.

A few specific locations,

-Old Homesteads
-Beach
-Park
-Tot Lots, Sand and loose surface like bark. You can dig in them, refill your holes and not do much harm
-Exercise Courses, (the fancy new trails with stations where you can do pull ups, sit ups.... )
-Volleyball Pits, especially those filled with sand.
-Soccer fields and any other athletic field where athletes might loose items and fans might drop stuff under bleachers or along the
sidelines.
-Your own yard
-Get permission to search the lot where a neighbors house is going to be torn down. Or, after the lot has been cleared, search
before construction starts.
-Sidewalk replacements



Read this site and look at the end of the list. It will list all the most recent posts. Look for topics that interest you. Read the catagory, Metal Detecting to learn some about locations and tips on how best to use your detector. Read, Best Finds or Today's Finds. Those are great places to see what people are finding. A lot of times, they tell where the person has been hunting and some info on where or how the finder located the items.

Do a search on catagories that you find interesting. At the top of the page you will find a box called "Search" insert some info there and do a search on topics that come to mind. You will find a lot of other info by following up on little hints or clues, so to speak, that you find here. Not that they are intended as clues or hints but, point being, you stumble over a little piece of information and you can search that and follow it to a mother load of info. Take Tot Lots for example. Search that, "Tot Lot" and you will find several posts that tell what people have experienced searching them. A few of my other posts are there. A couple where I went in more detail than here. From pictures of finds, to specific spots to look etc. Read some of those posts.

Another post that was posted, last night, where I wrote a lengthy, if you don't mind reading lengthy, post was about, "Why are sidewalk demos good". I wrote about areas where something old was removed and replaced with new housing and streets and sidewalks.... Stuff might not be new today, could even be 100 years old. However, what was there before that. If something good, when they tear down an old house or replace a sidewalk, old items covered with lawns or concrete or cobblestones could become accessable for the first time in over 100 years.

From my experience though, I would start with loose areas like sand and wood chips. Start at a local swimming beach or childrens playground. Search Volleyball pits etc. Get a feel for the detector and how it works. Play with some of the settings. It is amazing how, every time I go out, I find something. Usually pull tabs and bottle caps make up a good percentage but, every time out, I have found some loose change. I have been searching for about 4 months now and have also found an earing, a couple of rings, 2 diecast toy cars, a couple of charms from childrens jewelry (1 ice cream cone and one sunglasses with Barbie written on it). Everything I find is treasure to me. Whether a chunk of concrete with rebar in it, the plug from the drain on a boat the childrens jewelry or toy cars. Zipper pulls from childrens jackets found at a school playground. It all tells about the activity in the area and you can just imagine some kid playing there to have lost the items.

Go to places where other people go and you WILL find stuff.
 

Just read previous posts. The answers are there. Also you can get Mr Garretts book "The New Coin Hunting" (I think that is the name). Lots of ideas there also.

Mike
 

Thanks for the replies. I guess i'll scope out the sections here. I plan to see about my detector this payday. Radio shack or Walmart brand one should be ok. I here good things about them.
 

Also the book: The Urban Treasure Hunter: A Practical Handbook for Beginners By Michael Chaplan shows Everything.
I would go with a brand name instead of a radio shack though. Try boutny hunter for some cheaper detectors ;D
 

My understanding is that the Radio Shack detectors are Bounty Hunters. In fact, one of them is actually listed as BH. Discovery is their line.

Walmart is selling BH detectors also. Pioneer 202 and Pioneer 505 are a couple models, in the middle of the line. There are a few other models also.

I have to say, I don't know anything about Bounty Hunter or, any of these models. Maybe someone can give you a little more information before you put your money down on one.

A few things I would suggest though.

Do not go with the cheapest most basic detectors. Those are usually a step above toys, intended, probably, for young children. Some, seriously and literally are toys. Go with one of the more upper level ones. You don't want to spend $70 to $100 and find that the detector doesn't satisfy your needs or is so cheaply made that it will snap in half the first time out. Better detectors offer a better selection of features like discrimination, depth readings, programs for different types of hunting... Also, they are built to withstand weather, moisture... and have stronger shafts etc., designed to withstand a lot of serious detecting. Many of the good detectors that I read about here. Whites Prizm II is about $200 and the Prizm III is about $300. Garrett Ace 250, which is highly recommended here, is about $200 also. There is the BH 202 listed at RS for $198??? Compare that one with these others and see how it might be equipped.

If you are looking at Radio Shack or Walmart because you can walk in and then, maybe, out with your detector, try going to a local sporting goods store, instead, and see if they stock them. Depending on what stores might be in your area, Dick's Sporting Goods (Minelab, Garrett (Ace250 available), Bounty Hunter), Bass Pro Shops (Bounty Hunter), Sports Authority (Minelab, Garrett (Ace250 available), Bounty Hunter), Bass Pro Shops (Bounty Hunter), Cabelas (Bounty Hunter and a couple called Technetics) and, perhaps other large outlets, list them online. Whether they stock them in their stores, is another question. Incidentally, Sports Authoritie's website, and Dick's Website seem awefully similar. Did SA buy Dicks out?????

Also, go to www.whiteselectronics.com and in the box indicated, insert your zip code. They will tell you if there is a Treasure Hunting or other store in your area that sells White's Detectors. I have a White's XLT which is probably over your budget but there are other detectors in their line that might fit your resources. Prizm is a line of them to look at. I have been thinking of a second detector and, while the ACE 250 by Garretts is high on my list, some on these boards suggested the White's Prizms as well. There is a $50 rebate going right now, I think, instant at time of purchase. That is somewhat attractive along with my experience and satisfaction with Whites to begin with. Most of the other detector manufacturers offer the same ability to put in your zip code or address and find a dealer near you.

Many of these dealers might be smaller shops that you don't know are there. Also, they might cost a little more but you might find it more interesting and you might be happier with the customer service that you get for your money. Look in your phone book or check the manufacturers online. These places exist but you might need to look a little to find them. I bought my White's XLT from a store, don't recall the name, down in Chicago on Milwaukee Av. It was a small shop and wasn't glitzy or anything. Was a place with the detectors for searching utilities, lined up on the floor in the front. The store seemed old and had the air of one of those small shops, from years gone by, where you might take a vaccum or TV to get it repaired. There was a work bench in view where the proprietor was, obviously, servicing these other utility locator machines. I almost walked out thinking this wasn't the right place. Then I noticed the small display of Whites boxes and brochures. But, as I got talking to the guy, he told me of much of his experience searching area beaches and such and tipped me off on the local clubs.... He gave me a decen't enough price and, more customer service than I could ever get online or at a Walmart. The other place, in my area where I have been, about 20 mi north of me, is a small shop in the back of an industrial park. Behind some warehouse buildings and such. I thought I was lost the first time I went there. Odd hours also. Open later in the evenings but not mornings etc. Went back there in the evening and the whole area was dead. Just seemed odd that something would be back there at that time of the evening. When we went inside, there were display cases full of detecting finds, scoops and shovels and detectors on display. Again, it wasn't your most elaborate retailer but the man there started telling us some of the hot spots in the area and in Southern Wisconsin where they had been finding some prime stuff. I went in to buy a digger and a scoop. Bought them right away but stood there for almost 45 minutes talking about the local clubs and hunting spots, permits required in Lake County Forest Preserves :o . My girlfriends eyes were starting to roll as I stood there talking to the guy. God, I fell in love with such a geek!!! Again, the customer service and help that I got from these two guys far outweighed the huge stores and fancy displays....

You might find yourself much happier if you go for a higher end detector to start with than getting something too basic that won't find you much or will break as soon as you dip the coil into some strong waves on the beach, or that, simply doesn't have the features that you want and need. You might also find it more valuable, especially to start, to have someone you can go talk to about local places to search, some of the restricted areas, places to keep away from or places to definately go search. Also, if you have trouble operating the detector, it could be good to have someone to go to for help. One of the things, at least one of the guys had, was a test garden where he had burried some stuff. He said if I had any troubles, to bring the machine in and he would take me out and show me how things worked.

Again, not saying you need to go $800 like mine, or even $600 or $500. But, there are several good machines at or under $300 or $200 that you might do much better with. Compared to the RS and low Walmart machines at $70 to $100, If it means saving for another month or two to swing it, I would do that.

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.
 

He is right, a wal mart or radio shack detector will break and/or are toys. I would go with a tracker 4 by bounty hunter or a ace 250 by garrett.
 

I'm confused did he not also say the walmart and radio shack detectors are made by Bounty hunter? I've looked at one at walmart and one online by Bounty hunter they appear to be the same detector. The price was about half of the online model.
 

Yes, but the bouhty hunter models at wal mart and radio shack are not very good. If you are going to go with BH i would buy at least a tracker 4 or a higher model. But from what i heard the Ace 25o by garrett is the way to go.
 

EURUS: The Bounty Hunter branded detectors are made by First Texas Products, which is the parent corporation to Bounty Hunter. First Texas Products also makes the Pioneer brand for WalMart (though the box says made by Bounty Hunter). I would stay away from the Pioneer 101, or EX model and move to either the Pioneer 202 which operationally a twin to the Bounty Hunter QuickDraw II. It is a good detector for the money. Many over at the Bounty Hunter Bulletin Board (forum) use it with good results. The next step up at WalMart is the Pioneer 505 which is the twin to the Bounty Hunter SharpShooter II, but has an added depth readout and includes the 4" auxilarry coil which is great for hunting in very trashy sites or up next to metal bleachers, fences, etc. It also has a no-motion All-Metal mode which means the detector will detect a metal item even when the coil is motionless over the target. The All-Metal mode on the Pioneer 202 is a motion type and while it will detect all metals like the Pioneer 505, the coil must be in motion over the metal target. The no-motion All-Metal mode on the 505 is great for pinpointing. The Pioneer detectors come with a 5-Year warranty, just like the Bounty Hunter branded machines.

First Texas Products also makes the Discovery series detectors sold by RadioShack, which are operational twins to the Titan series sold by Kellyco and it's online discount identity, AARDVARK Detectors. The 1100 is the entry level model and has pretty limited features. If you can swing the extra money, go for the 2200 model (same as the Titan 2000XD), or the 3300 (same as the Titan 3000XD). Contrary to what others say about the RadioShack Discovery series or WalMart Pioneer series detectors being toys, they are competent performers for the price you'll pay. I can afford ANY detector I want and I chose the Discovery 3300. The RadioShack units only come with a 90-Day warranty, but I purchased the 3-Year extended warranty for $59 plus tax. For the price, features, and warranty difference, the Titan series may be a bit better deal. I would have bought the Titan if it would have been available at the time.

None of these are going to perform on par with a Whites DFX, Garretts GTI-2500, Tesoro Cortez, Minelab Explorer, or Bounty Hunter Time Ranger, but they will perform on par with others low to mid-priced detectors at a lower price point. The standard 8" coil is supplied with most all of the First Texas machines, and the 4" Gold Nugget coil and 10" Magnum coil are inexpensive to purchase and will really open up your hunting possibilities. If you've got questions on the Discovery, Pioneer, or Bounty Hunter brands, swing on over to the Bounty Bulletin Board at www.detecting.com, sign up, and ask away! Like here, it's a friendly group of folks always willing to help.

I know some will differ with my opinion, and that's OK. I'm never going to bash any other brand simply because I don't hunt with it. I think that picking a detector that you like (and that's a very subjective thing) and taking the time to really learn it will really pay off with good finds in your pouch and a wealth of fun while treasure hunting. It's a great hobby that's full of great people who are always willing to help.

I guess the thing to do is to try out as many different machines from as many manufacturers as you can and find the one that you like. Many would disagree with the choice I made, but the way the Discovery 3300 works "just fit the way my brain thinks". I really like mine and because of the confidence I have in my machine, I have success in the field. Hope that you find the detector that's right for you.

Here's a link to the field tests on the Lost Treasure website:

http://www.losttreasure.com/fieldtests/

You can click on the 'Bounty Hunter' tab and read about the QuickDraw II (twin to the Pioneer 202), the SharpShooter II (twin to the Pioneer 505), and the RadioShack Discovery 2200. I think these tests will show that BH is a good brand.

Here's a link to a field test of the Titan 3000XD (twin to the RadioShack Discovery 3300):

http://www.kellycodetectors.com/Field Test Reports/titan3000.htm

You'll notice that there are some black boxes over some models of detectors that the Titan is compared against. If you'll take your cursor and highlight the boxes, you can read the text behind. The models the Titan 3000XD is compared to are the Whites Prism IV, and the Garrett GTAx 750 and 1250. The Titan stacks up pretty well. Hope I've been some help and shed some objective light on the Bounty Hunter choices you're considering. BBJ
 

Maybe I can clear up a little confusion. I am not familiar with the Bounty Hunters, specifically but, in general, some manufacturers will make a line of products to be sold by retailers under a store brand, or will make special models of items to be sold by large stores or chains like Radio Shack and Walmart. It can vary regarding features and quality.

A few examples.

Thomasville Furniture, known for high quality expensive hard wood furniture makes a line of kit furniture that is sold exclusively at Target. Some of this furniture has nice styling and design and all but that is really, only skin deep. While, still nice and all, it is, like Sauder, Bush and O'Sullivan, in some cases cheaper, made of fiber board and covered with veneers or simply painted... Sold in kit boxes at affordable prices. I can't remember which company it is, one of the formentioned ones, makes a line of furniture under the Christopher Lowell designers name. Sold exclusively at Office Depot. Office furniture that, I find, while nice in style, is kind of small scale and somewhat cheap in construction. But, affordable and easy to put in your car, take home and build yourself from the kit.

Often electronics manufacturers will simply change a name or model number on a product, specifically for one, high volume, retailer, or put the retailers brand on the product with a custom cabinet etc.. The product might be identical in most respects to another product in their regular line. Some differences like cabinet color or composition, say plastic instead of metal... might exist to provide better pricing for the retailer and the model number changed to differentiate it from the regular lines.

Some manufacturers make specific lines of products for sale through their regular dealers, or maybe to higher end buyers, then might make a seperate line of products to be sold to budget minded consumers or to mass retailers like Walmart, Sears etc. The two lines might seem similar, look identical and all but specific features might differ based on the market that the line of products is being targeted to.

JVC makes a couple lines of Video Recorders. Identical in most respects to one another . Each has a slightly different model number format. One is marketed for several hundred dollars a unit more than the other. Difference is, one is being marketed to professionals or serious video users and has a metal cabinet, circulation fan, heavier chassis and a longer warrantee. The other is sold to budget minded home users, is plastic, may not have a cooling fan and has a shorter warrantee, making it a few hundred dollars cheaper. They figure a professional might over work their machines and leave them running longer so they add the fan. A consumer might only use the machine occasionally and for short terms so they might put auto shut off to avoid over heating and leave the expensive fans and heat sinks out of the machine. Metal cabinets might not be necessary on a home unit that will be hooked up and left in place and lighter weight might be more important to an average consumer. A professional who might take their machine from location to location and might move it around more, might demand more durability. Metal cabinetry gives that sense of higher quality and might also benefit in transfer of heat from the machine and all. Also, there may be features that aren't programmed or enabled on one machine that are functional on another. The circuit boards might be identical and everything there on both units. However, a jumper or a resister here, and a button or a knob there or a different LCD display on one over the other, and some features might be available on one machine that aren't on the other.

So, in the end, I guess what I am getting at, is that, while Bounty Hunter might make the detectors for Radio Shack under the Discovery Brand, and while Walmart might sell some Bounty Hunter detectors, they may not be the same as the ones you would buy from other dealers like a local Metal Detector, Sporting Goods or Treasure Hunting dealer. Internally they could be identical with some shortcuts like cabinet construction or shaft construction on the mass retailer models, using a lesser expensive and more delicate material. Meaning that one machine might not have the durability as another. Or, it could only be the name on the detector that is different making it a better deal but making it difficult to compare apples to apples.

I wasn't trying to say that the Radio Shack or Walmart detectors were ALL toys or cheap. I was pointing out that they didn't seem to have the same names as some of the other models I have heard referred to in the past. There does seem to be a range in models so maybe the higher ones are reasonable and well equipped and manufacturered models. So, they could just be relabled and otherwise be the same. Compare them, if you can, to the other models available before you buy. Also I was trying to emphasize that, the $69 machines, might be better classified as toys or the most basic hobby detectors. Intended more for young children and should be avoided. There could be issues like extreme simplicity for a child, shorter shaft for shorter people, lighter weight, which might mean more plastic and less durability. They might not be designed for long term or rugged use, based on a belief that the buyer will loose interest in the hobby in a few months, or move on or advance to a better machine. Spending more on a better machine might mean you are getting a machine that is designed for long term, rugged use by someone who is going to want a machine that will last them for years. The average buyers interest is pretty developed and they are more long term focused. If that describes you, don't cheap out and get too little of a machine. Get something that you will grow into rather than grow out of.

Also, by going to someplace like Radio Shack, while you will have better one on one relationships with your salesman, I find that RS employees rarely know enough about what they are selling. They may know electronics fairly well to help you find a part. Or, they might be experienced computer technicians to help you find stuff for your computer. Some may be what one might call Scanner Geeks that can sell you the best scanner radio and antenna to put in and on your car. Or, they may know cell phones and all the cellphone accessories. But, expect them to adequately know the metal detectors and all their features and that might be pushing it. Walmart, you will probably have to expect to know it all yourself. Find it on a shelf or behind a counter and someone will get one for you. Ask them anything about it and you are probably SOL. Customer Service at Walmart might be nil. Your salesman might know something about Shotguns or Fishing but will he know about metal detecting?

So,I tried to point out how, it might make sense to find a local dealer of metal detectors and equipment. You might pay a little more but you will get better service, advice, knowlege.... He will be better able to tell you where, in your area, are good places to hunt. He should know about local clubs you can get involved with, or laws and restrictions to be aware of. He might also have other accessories like pouches to carry your finds, scoops, diggers etc. In the end it might be worth a little more. If anything goes wrong with a RS or WM detector you will probably be able to take it back and exchange it. However, what if it is then out of stock. You might have to take your refund and go find another store. If you simply have problems understanding the machine and need some help, you aren't going to find it at WM. You might get lucky and find the one guy at RS that knows metal detecting and can help you but, I think, odds would be against that. Have a local Treasure Hunting or Metal Detecting dealer on your side and you can get a lot more assistance when you need it.

I often take the last route here, when I am buying expensive or complicated items. Items where it might be necessary to return or exchange something, get some help etc. Rather than shipping something back and forth to an online retailer or the manufacturer, being able to just take it back to the store. Someplace where the people there know items, like cameras or video equipment and can actually help me through difficulty. Rather than sitting on the phone with some guy in Pakistan or India, for an hour, not understanding a word that they are saying.

Once I have the basics down and know enough on my own, or if the items are something that is a no brainer, like a sand scoop or digger, I might order that online at some savings. But, your detector is your most important and most complicated item. It might also be an expensive investment. I am of the belief that buying it locally from someone who is of experience is worth 10x the added cost.
 

I got pulled away while writing my last post, then had trouble sending it. By the time I got it through, the previous post had come through.

Pretty good post to shed some other light on what I was saying. Especially where he shows the "Twin" models to the RS or WM brands.

So, on the upper end of the lines, the machines do seem to be reasonably competant machines, identical to other models but changed a little and relabeled under different brands and marketed by Radio Shack and Walmart. Going with the thoughts that I expressed in the other post, steer clear of the low end machines and look toward one of the ones that are mentioned in the post by Big Bad John. That is, if you are intent and have to go to Radio Shack or Walmart. I still would, if you can, try and buy from a regular metal detector dealer though. Unless you are confident in your knowlege and feel you don't need that level of customer service.

In my case, I am pretty new at all this. I didn't know the first thing about discrimination or sensitivity, pinpointing or VDI or any of the other terminology when I bought. So, as I mentioned, it seemed worth while to be buying from someone who I felt knew the product and could help me if I needed further service or assistance. Now that I have a primary machine, and I know a little more about all this, I would, probably, consider more, buying a second machine via mail order or from a larger retailer like Sports Authority or Bass Pro Outdoorworld... etc. which I have around me.
 

I'm kinda leaning towards the radio shack cause they specialize in electronic stuff. Thanks for the help.
 

eurus......RADIO SHACK specializes in "CHEAP" electronics! you are making a mistake by getting a detector from them. listen to the advice you got about the garrett ace and the whites prism.these guys know what they are talking about.
 

A rebuttal to hollowpointred:

First, RadioShack doesn't make the Discovery Series of detectors, First Texas Products does. So your concern about RadioShack specializing in "CHEAP" electronics seems invalid to me, since RadioShack doesn't manufacture most of it's own products, relying on private label arrangements with other well known, competent manufacturers.

Second, If you'll check out the Titan series of detectors at the Kellyco site, and read the various forums on the web, you'll see that many users of other brands believe them to be competent entry-level and mid-point machines. They are in fact IDENTICAL to the RadioShack models with the exception of colors, faceplate, and the Titan 3000XD model has a compression lock-ring to hold the upper and lower stem firmly together while the RadioShack Discovery 3300 does not.

Third, the price difference between the two is approximately $100, but the Titan does offer the 5-year warranty. The cost of warranty support between a 90-day term and a 5-year term can easily account for the price difference between the two. I did call First Texas and was told that other than the above-mentioned cosmetic and warranty differences between the two models, they were identical with respect to manufacturing, operation, and performance.

Fourth, if you'll use the link to the field test on the Titan 3000XD and use your cursor to highlight the 'black-out' boxes in the narrative, you'll see that the Titan held it's own against a White's Prism IV which is a mid-level machine in the White's lineup. If I remember correctly, Whites only warrants the Prism IV for 2 years.

So hollowpointred, I did support with third party, independent reviews what I am confident is a properly constructed, well thought, answer to EURUS' question. You do have a right to your opinion, but it is far from a logical, compelling argument. BBJ
 

I am going to end my comments with this. I think everything has been addressed, at least once. There is plenty of advice on what is out there and alternatives to Radio Shack or Walmart. In reality, those stores aren't that bad in themselves. The detectors are built by a second party and marketed through special names and model lines through the retailers. Some of them might be perfectly acceptable machines and all. The remaining issue though, in my opinion, is whether Radio Shack or Walmart are the best places to go for a metal detector.

Don't get me wrong,? I am not trying to talk you out of Radio Shack, if that is where you think you might get a machine that fits your needs and budget. If you have done your research and are comfortable with you choice, that is fine.? ? However, one thing about your last post seems errant to me.?

Don't buy from Radio Shack because they specialize in electronics.? Look at their inventory.? They sell everything from component replacement parts (LEDs, Switches, Resisters, Transistor, Capacitors....) to cables and speakers, headphones and batteries, radios, computers, phones,? radio controlled toys, scanners, two way radios and antennae....? ?

That is a wide range of stuff to expect a clerk to know enough about everything in stock.? ?I know and have known people who work or worked at Radio Shack.? I have had a lot of confidence in some of them.? ?One is really big on public safety.? Works on fire and disaster services crews and if I needed information or help with a scanner, antenna, programming of a scanner.... He would be one of the first people I would go to. He may know a lot about computers also and has worked for RS for long enough that he might be pretty knowlegable.? ?Some clerks there might know computers really well and can find you the perfect modem and network solution for your home PC.? Or, I have known of some who knew everything about sound systems.? If I needed some headphones or speakers, some speaker or antenna wire, connectors, or needed to figure how to mic or record sound for a video,? I would feel confident that I could get some competant help.? But, more often than not, I have to say that when I go to a RS store to buy something, I rarely get a clerk that knows about MY needs.? I might go looking for an audio solution and get a computer technician.? I might go looking for a scanner and find someone who knows about Cell Phones.? Then, I have encountered people who didn't even know the first thing about anything electronic.? Other than how to sell you 9v batteries that you don't need.?

I just think that they have too broad of a product line to be the best source for quality information or service.? Radio Shack is great if you do your research and know what you want or need or happen to find a person you can go back to for help.? Or, if you are buying something simple where you don't really need any specialized assistance.? ?I go there frequently to get adapters or coax cable... parts or stuff where I have a good vision of what I need.? I ask for a part and they simply point me to it.? I just don't know I would buy a serious metal detector there.? ?But, that is my feelings.?
 

well.........at least check back in in six months and let us know how the "RADIO SHACK" detector is working out. :-*
 

After all the shopping, price comparason, quality evaluation, budget consideration and warranty policies I always ask myself one final and importany question . . .

Where do I go and who do I ask when a have that one important question or need an explanation??

I have had numerous computers and a few questions over the years. I have never once called Best Buy for an answer. Knowledgable support can be important when you need it most.

Buy your MD where you want but do NOT buy it because " . . . they are an electronics store." Buy it for price, buy it for support (if they have it and I doubt it) but not because they sell electronics. TV stores specialize electronics . . . Appliance stores sell electronics . . . . heck, even some hardware stores sell electronics.

Hobo
 

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