Advice on Best Book for Beach Detecting

[retire05]

OK, I've been metal detecting on land for 7 months but have taken a 2 month hiatus while I sold my house in Suffolk, VA. I really want to get into beach hunting a bit before the weather gets bad. Casper gave me some links to look at (thanks Casper!). He also suggested getting a book by Clive Clynick and or Gary Drayton. I just had a chance to look online at some books by these authors, but there has been several to choose from. Does anyone have advice on the best selection(s)? I'm trying to look online on you-tube for some pointers as well. See lots of sites that show what they have found, but not to many that dummy down how they determine where to go to start detecting other than the towel line. Any advice for a novice?

Brad

 

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Treasure of Victoria Peak - Grab it through Amazon!

[frogmaster-riviera]

"The Armshair detectorist vol 1"

 

[Terry Soloman]

... but not to many that dummy down how they determine where to go to start detecting other than the towel line. Any advice for a novice?

Brad

From an article I wrote. Look at the last paragraph first.

Beach and Water Hunting Equipment

Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.

Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!

Waders - Waders are the least expensive way to get into the surf at low tide. In most ocean beach situations, waders will only be serviceable to depths just above the knee due to wave action. Important things to look for in quality waders include weight; fabric thickness; flip out storage pockets; high-density neoprene booties (rather than heavy rubber boots); and a good wading belt should be included. Lightweight slip-on beach shoes can be worn over the neoprene booties.

Wetsuits - Fit is the most important factor when purchasing a wetsuit. You must try on the wetsuit, as every wetsuit manufacturer's size chart is different. Thickness is also important. The thicker the suit, the warmer. 'Smoothie' neoprene stretches better and is warmer in windy conditions. Seams are also important. The types of seams used in a wetsuit differ greatly.

An "Overlock" seam is found on inexpensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever but it is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or a rash as it protrudes against the skin. A "Flatlock" seam is a flat stitch that does not push into your skin like the overlock. It is not watertight, but does not cause as much of a rash or chaffing problem.

The "Blindstitch," is a flat stitch that does not penetrate all the way through the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes. It is watertight which makes a tremendous difference. Blindstich seams are found only on more expensive wetsuits.

Last but not least, wetsuit zippers - or closures, are extremely important. "Back-zip" suits are the most common type. Look for a sturdy metal zipper (rather than plastic), and thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent water flushes. You would look for the same qualities in a "Shoulder-zip" suit.

Footwear - There are dozens of choices when it comes to beach and water shoes, and many bargains to be found. Look for a shoe that meets your exact needs. It should be metal-free, and as light as possible without sacrificing your overall comfort. Beach hunters can spend four- to six- hours gridding the sand at their local beach. Comfort and breathability are extremely important.

Hat - Anyone who spends a lot of time on the beach knows the importance of a quality, long billed cap. There are several things to look for in a good beach detecting cap. Be sure the cap feels comfortable with your headphones and sunglasses on. A cap should be breathable, and offer a sun flap to protect the back of your neck.

Sunglasses - Eye protection should be a top priority while spending long hours in the sun. Extended exposure to reflected light and glare from sand and water can cause real discomfort, and even damage to your eyes. Beach Detecting Strategies; When and Where to find treasure on the beach

The beach is divided into two-sections - The "Dry Sand" or blanket area, and the "Wet Sand" or swimming area.

When detecting the dry sand areas, successful beach hunters "grid" individual sections of the beach. Start by choosing an area 50-feet long, by 50-feet wide. First detect from the North to South. When you have detected the entire grid, turn 90-degrees and detect it again East to West. Moving slowly and methodically, you will be able to pass your coil over every inch of the 50' x 50' area. Coins, watches, rings, bracelets, Ipods, cell phones, car keys - you'll find it all! The phrase to remember is "low and slow." Keeping your coil as low and flat to the sand as you can, while moving slowly enough to assure your sweeps overlap each other is the real key to success.

For tips on hunting the surf and wet sand I consulted with Rusty Henry. Rusty is a retired Navy "frogman," and an original Seal Team 2 member. He is a living metal detecting legend, and has been the Service Manager at Tesoro Electronics for 20-years. Rusty says rings and jewelry are lost in the water during both High, and Low tides. You can get to these treasures much more quickly during Low tide however. "At Low tide, get into knee- to thigh- deep water to get to the jewelry that was lost at High tide by people swimming, frolicking, throwing Frisbees, footballs and such," says Rusty.

"Look for streaks of Black sand on the beach at the waterline. These are always an indicator of where other heavy things like coins and jewelry will be deposited. Many beaches will only have Black sand streaks after a storm, or unusually heavy wave action. Storms uncover things that have been out of reach for many years as the sand gets ripped away. You have to act fast however during low tides, as a couple tide changes can start covering it all up again." Rusty says after a violent storm, look for hard clay patches that are showing and, "detect the small depressions that look like miniature potholes."

 

[s1u2r3f4]

I think I have too many books. But "Gold beneath the waves" by Jim Brouwer(foiled again Jim, I think) is great. He has a wonderful sense of humor and good tips and a great outlook. He stresses erosion. But I still go out everyday hoping for some sanded in miracle find!

 

[certman68]

Start with Gold Beneath the Waves and the go to Clynick's books. Draytons are "so so" in my opinion. GBTW will get your enough information to get started. Best of luck!

OK, I've been metal detecting on land for 7 months but have taken a 2 month hiatus while I sold my house in Suffolk, VA. I really want to get into beach hunting a bit before the weather gets bad. Casper gave me some links to look at (thanks Casper!). He also suggested getting a book by Clive Clynick and or Gary Drayton. I just had a chance to look online at some books by these authors, but there has been several to choose from. Does anyone have advice on the best selection(s)? I'm trying to look online on you-tube for some pointers as well. See lots of sites that show what they have found, but not to many that dummy down how they determine where to go to start detecting other than the towel line. Any advice for a novice?

Brad

 

[jyt2017]

Depends. There's a book out there for you. There specific to machines or type of hunting. I own several. Every one of them...every one of them has helped me.

Either on my mechanics or research. Or on my machine. Etc. what is most important now. If your new to the beach maybe a book that covers shallow water hunting or beach reading. Reading an extra book on your machine is a must.

Plan on buying 5 books. There not that much money. Buy one a month. Hhgl-Joe

OK, I've been metal detecting on land for 7 months but have taken a 2 month hiatus while I sold my house in Suffolk, VA. I really want to get into beach hunting a bit before the weather gets bad. Casper gave me some links to look at (thanks Casper!). He also suggested getting a book by Clive Clynick and or Gary Drayton. I just had a chance to look online at some books by these authors, but there has been several to choose from. Does anyone have advice on the best selection(s)? I'm trying to look online on you-tube for some pointers as well. See lots of sites that show what they have found, but not to many that dummy down how they determine where to go to start detecting other than the towel line. Any advice for a novice?

Brad

 

[Treasure_Hunter]

This website beats all books...

http://web.archive.org/web/20080202045558/http://thegoldenolde.com/

 

[CASPER-2]

Im still writing it ..plz be patient

 

[retire05]

From an article I wrote. Look at the last paragraph first.

Beach and Water Hunting Equipment

Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.

Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!

Waders - Waders are the least expensive way to get into the surf at low tide. In most ocean beach situations, waders will only be serviceable to depths just above the knee due to wave action. Important things to look for in quality waders include weight; fabric thickness; flip out storage pockets; high-density neoprene booties (rather than heavy rubber boots); and a good wading belt should be included. Lightweight slip-on beach shoes can be worn over the neoprene booties.

Wetsuits - Fit is the most important factor when purchasing a wetsuit. You must try on the wetsuit, as every wetsuit manufacturer's size chart is different. Thickness is also important. The thicker the suit, the warmer. 'Smoothie' neoprene stretches better and is warmer in windy conditions. Seams are also important. The types of seams used in a wetsuit differ greatly.

An "Overlock" seam is found on inexpensive suits. This type of stitch lasts forever but it is not watertight, and can cause skin irritation or a rash as it protrudes against the skin. A "Flatlock" seam is a flat stitch that does not push into your skin like the overlock. It is not watertight, but does not cause as much of a rash or chaffing problem.

The "Blindstitch," is a flat stitch that does not penetrate all the way through the neoprene, so there are no stitch holes. It is watertight which makes a tremendous difference. Blindstich seams are found only on more expensive wetsuits.

Last but not least, wetsuit zippers - or closures, are extremely important. "Back-zip" suits are the most common type. Look for a sturdy metal zipper (rather than plastic), and thick flaps behind the zipper to prevent water flushes. You would look for the same qualities in a "Shoulder-zip" suit.

Footwear - There are dozens of choices when it comes to beach and water shoes, and many bargains to be found. Look for a shoe that meets your exact needs. It should be metal-free, and as light as possible without sacrificing your overall comfort. Beach hunters can spend four- to six- hours gridding the sand at their local beach. Comfort and breathability are extremely important.

Hat - Anyone who spends a lot of time on the beach knows the importance of a quality, long billed cap. There are several things to look for in a good beach detecting cap. Be sure the cap feels comfortable with your headphones and sunglasses on. A cap should be breathable, and offer a sun flap to protect the back of your neck.

Sunglasses - Eye protection should be a top priority while spending long hours in the sun. Extended exposure to reflected light and glare from sand and water can cause real discomfort, and even damage to your eyes. Beach Detecting Strategies; When and Where to find treasure on the beach

The beach is divided into two-sections - The "Dry Sand" or blanket area, and the "Wet Sand" or swimming area.

When detecting the dry sand areas, successful beach hunters "grid" individual sections of the beach. Start by choosing an area 50-feet long, by 50-feet wide. First detect from the North to South. When you have detected the entire grid, turn 90-degrees and detect it again East to West. Moving slowly and methodically, you will be able to pass your coil over every inch of the 50' x 50' area. Coins, watches, rings, bracelets, Ipods, cell phones, car keys - you'll find it all! The phrase to remember is "low and slow." Keeping your coil as low and flat to the sand as you can, while moving slowly enough to assure your sweeps overlap each other is the real key to success.

For tips on hunting the surf and wet sand I consulted with Rusty Henry. Rusty is a retired Navy "frogman," and an original Seal Team 2 member. He is a living metal detecting legend, and has been the Service Manager at Tesoro Electronics for 20-years. Rusty says rings and jewelry are lost in the water during both High, and Low tides. You can get to these treasures much more quickly during Low tide however. "At Low tide, get into knee- to thigh- deep water to get to the jewelry that was lost at High tide by people swimming, frolicking, throwing Frisbees, footballs and such," says Rusty.

"Look for streaks of Black sand on the beach at the waterline. These are always an indicator of where other heavy things like coins and jewelry will be deposited. Many beaches will only have Black sand streaks after a storm, or unusually heavy wave action. Storms uncover things that have been out of reach for many years as the sand gets ripped away. You have to act fast however during low tides, as a couple tide changes can start covering it all up again." Rusty says after a violent storm, look for hard clay patches that are showing and, "detect the small depressions that look like miniature potholes."

Thanks, Terry. This is very helpful....Brad

 

[retire05]

Start with Gold Beneath the Waves and the go to Clynick's books. Draytons are "so so" in my opinion. GBTW will get your enough information to get started. Best of luck!

Thanks for the advice!...Brad

 

[retire05]

Thanks for the link! I appreciate the help...Brad

 

[retire05]

Thanks Joe. That is a different perspective I've not considered before. Appreciate the help...Brad

 

[dewcon4414]

IF you have determined the scoop and detector you will use......... then there is no better education than hours spent in the water. If you want to read........ get as much information as you can about the detector you choose. because bottom line is.......if its not there you cant find it, if you dont get your coil over it you cant find it, and if you dont know what the detector is telling you .... you cant find it.

Dew

 

[meMiner]

Great advise on this thread. Some books have a hundred pages covering the info above.

Bottom line - get into the water, use the least discrimination the spot can handle. Dig every repeatable loud target and all soft (deeper) targets. If you are getting pull tabs in concentration, which are very light, try to move a short distance where the targets are heavier. In an ideal situation, you will get pull tabs then bottle tops, followed by coins and then rings. Of course, that never really works and the best bet is just dig it all...LOL

 

[cudamark]

I agree with just about everything Terry says except for the gridding part. IMO, unless you're hunting for something specific that's been lost, or you're finding lots of good targets, gridding is a waste of your time. I'd rather have "virgin" sand under my coil at all times and cover a lot more ground than trying to squeeze every target out of a smaller area. Sure, I'm going to miss a few targets in a given patch of sand, but, I'm going to sample a whole lot more sand! At most beaches, there's no way you're going to cover it all in one hunt anyway, so, why go over the same ground twice while leaving other areas without even one pass? Now, when you find a good target, yeah, hunt all around it for more. Pocket spills are fairly common. Otherwise try for close to 100% coverage but without overlapping.