Advice needed on stuck pump impeller

[N-Lionberger]

I have a keene pump on an older 3hp Briggs and Stratton engine. The engine is in need of some work so I want to take the pump off. I watched Reed Lukens video on YouTube. I got the chain strap wrench and a dead blow hammer. It is really stuck on there and I'm not sure how to proceed, does anyone have any advice?

 

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[mike(swWash)]

You could try buying some kroil penetrating oil and let it do it's magic.

 

[Reed Lukens]

Pull off the pull rope cover and then you can do 2 things... Either put a socket on the shaft and hold it while you beat the chain wrench with the dead blow hammer. This could loosen the nut on the shaft but that's an easy fix, or you can block with a wrench on the nut and through the air fins. But spray the back with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a day if you have the time.

 

[Bill_saf]

Pull off the pull rope cover and then you can do 2 things... Either put a socket on the shaft and hold it while you beat the chain wrench with the dead blow hammer. This could loosen the nut on the shaft but that's an easy fix, or you can block with a wrench on the nut and through the air fins. But spray the back with some penetrating oil and let it sit for a day if you have the time.

there is a safer way so you don't break off fins on the fly wheel. Pull the spark plug roll the engine over just before compression stroke ( valves closed) take about 3 feet of 1/4" rope ( cord ) and put as much of it as you can through spark plug hole then turn nuts, bolts. Buy doing it this way you block the piston and wont take a chance of twisting the crank. Just a lil trick from a small engine mechanic friend.

 

[Hoser John]

Apply a little heat from a propane handheld torch as that'll assist also. Now that the lesson has been learned when you put back together that impeller needs to be oiled prior to reassembly and let it sit overnight,wipe out the threads to remove any iron/rust/gunk left,re oil and reassemble. Then it will come off much more easily. If you use the righteous old school rope trick just make sure to blow out the chamber good as sometimes pieces of rope remain. Lotza a luck as they can be stubborn for sure when not assembled properly. Pizzaman used locktight on his once now THATN' was a hoot for sure--John

 

[russau]

use anti-seize compound on that shaft before reassembly! I use this on all my threads especially my lug nuts on my truck and trailer.

 

[Vance in AK]

use anti-seize compound on that shaft before reassembly! I use this on all my threads especially my lug nuts on my truck and trailer.

I grew up with a heavy equipment mechanic father. He would just about beat me if he saw me putting something together without anti-seize!

 

[kazcoro]

I agree with John. I was thinking apply some heat. The aluminum would expand first, and give you some room to get it off.

 

[SHoward]

It's very hard to get penetrating oil on that shaft behind the impeller because of the clearances.
Get a 1/16" drill and drill dead center of the impeller, after that it's easy to get penetrating oil in there right where it needs to be. This mod will not change the performance of the pump at all.

 

[N-Lionberger]

Where do I drill into the impeller exactly? I really don't want to screw this thing up. I put the rope in, tried some heat, no go. Tried the oil and still no go. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[SHoward]

Dead center....Drill straight in to the end of the shaft.

One really silly question, you are turning the impeller to the left aren't you?

 

[Reed Lukens]

Where do I drill into the impeller exactly? I really don't want to screw this thing up. I put the rope in, tried some heat, no go. Tried the oil and still no go. Thanks for the help everyone.

Sounds like something is not right here... You pretty much have no other choice but to put heat on it now until the shaft and impeller turn bright red. Then it should screw right off... or left off as it is.

 

[N-Lionberger]

I am turning to the left. Please bear with my ignorance, how would drilling into the center of the shaft allow oil to reach the threads which are on the outside of the shaft?

 

[N-Lionberger]

Hey Reed, you must have typed that up right as I typed up my last response, boy am I glad I signed up here. So heating the shaft red hot will not damage the engine in any way?

 

[SHoward]

The impeller screws onto the shaft, by drilling a hole in the center of the impeller you will open a path for penetrating oil to get to the end of the shaft and then down to the threads from the inside out.

 

[SHoward]

Any chance you can post some pics....Something just doesn't seem right, an aluminum impeller just isn't usually that hard to break free and spin off. I've had some stick pretty hard before but those were on pumps out of a junk pile that hadn't been run for 5-10 years and made out of brass.

 

[MadJack_ME]

Reed, what happens to aluminum when you apply a direct flame?

"heat the shaft and impeller to bright red"

I have no help to offer except that Aluminum will soften considerably when a flame is applied. At that point you're buying a new impeller or complete new pump!

Good luck N

 

[Bill_saf]

At 950 Deg f your all done at 500 deg f your safe you only need to get it to about 400 thats for the center of the impeller not the shaft

 

[Reed Lukens]

Reed, what happens to aluminum when you apply a direct flame?

"heat the shaft and impeller to bright red"

I have no help to offer except that Aluminum will soften considerably when a flame is applied. At that point you're buying a new impeller or complete new pump!

Good luck N

I've never had an impeller that I ever had to even warm to get off. I've had some stuck on tight enough to put the rope into the spark plug hole but that was before I bought the chain wrench. Somebody glued his impeller on or so it seems because the dead blow hammer with the chain wrench works every time. He's already heated it once and it didn't come off. I would put the bead of the flame on the shaft by the threads and heat it from there. What other option then heating it until it spins off is there? Just be careful and when it starts turning bright red, before orange... Keep wrench pressure on the impeller and if it doesn't come off this time, your seal will be toast anyway, so keep going. It would be best to have someone else look at it first or have them try turning it while it's being heated.

 

[Vance in AK]

I know its already been said, but in years of mechanicing Kroil is absolutely the best penetrating oil i have ever used on really stuck stuff. i dont remember if its been szid but sometimes a couple of good wacks on the end of rhe impeller (where the end of the shaft would be if it was exposed) will also help break things loose.