4" Keene 3-stage sluice

[LRC253]

(I posted this on the GoldHog forum but want diverse opinion)

I have been reading forum after forum, thread after thread and can't find a clear and concise answer if GH mat works in this 3-stage or not.

I purchased a 4" Keene 3-stage sluice with GH matting already installed BUT... Somewhat of a strange setup as entire setup is running UR matting. To make matters most likely worse there are the stock riffles with expanded metal on top of them. The under side stage has UR matting with small riffles.
I still got quite a bit of gold but I don't see the point of this setup with HG matting because the riffles are piling up with cons.

If anyone has this exact sluice, what is the very best setup for this dredge? If it is indeed with GH matting I was looking at a combo of stuff including scrubber, riverhog, talon and UR.

 

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[russau]

what is the throttle set at? what is the slope of your sluice? are you loading up the sluice with material? What did Doc recommend?

 

[LRC253]

Throttle was set at 2/3rds, it wasn't building up with large rocks as they were getting blown right off.
The slope seems a little tricky as I've been told not to have the bottom of the sluice in the water, so I adjusted it all the way back towards the engine for the second run and also had the same results.
I tried to stick to the 1/4 material/water ratio.
I emailed Doc last week before I even ran it the first time asking what he would have recommended but haven't received a response yet.

 

[goldgit'r]

Take the GH mats out and put it back like it was designed!
The UR mats are suppose to be under riffle mats. When they were originally trying to sell people on them they said run them the way yours is set up, then after a while they changed their mind and said run them with nothing over them.
To get enough velocity for the mats to work you will have to have the discharge end of the sluice under water or modify your dredge frame and raise the sluice up to get the right amount of fall.
I tried to get them to work in a little 2'' and did to some extent but ended up taking them out and going back with what worked.
The dredges they use for testing are not dredges, they are high bankers on barrels and they are able to get the required angle on the sluice.

Wes

 

[Hoser John]

Remove that insipid top 3rd level and sell that mat , then put back stock and procede to find gold as problems instantly disappear as a simple over/under rocks and has been the industry golden standard for over 30 years-John

 

[LRC253]

Instead of buying new v-rib mat I'm going to try to put miners moss over UR matting with riffles and remove the end/upper stage. Thanks for your guys' input.

 

[goldgit'r]

The UR mat is a lot thicker than v rib and you may warp your sluice trying to close the riffle hold downs.
Try removing the UR and just use moss and expanded under the riffles.

Wes

 

[NeoTokyo]

Instead of buying new v-rib mat I'm going to try to put miners moss over UR matting with riffles and remove the end/upper stage. Thanks for your guys' input.

THIS!

Be sure to adjust your latches for the increased height of the added Hog Moss.

Also, braze a little damn the height of the Hog moss at the back of the sluice so your gold doesn't blow out the bottom.

 

[LRC253]

THIS!

Be sure to adjust your latches for the increased height of the added Hog Moss.

Also, braze a little damn the height of the Hog moss at the back of the sluice so your gold doesn't blow out the bottom.

Good to know, I didn't know those latches were adjustable.
The problem with brazing is I have to separate the flare/sluice for transportation purposes. I'm going to run bare UR before the first riffle then moss after and hopefully I won't have that issue.

 

[NeoTokyo]

Im sorry, I just re-read the thread, I was thinking you had the triple sluice dredge, my bad.

yeah, I can see how this can be a problem with my plate suggestion, lol

 

[Hoser John]

All tripples need is a couple or curtains,a bit of rubber mat and a good man behind it. I've had quite a few sizes. 1st pic is a 5" in the Ruck a Chuckie rapids by scramento and second is Clear Creek here by Redding. The 6" monster had to have 3' of extra centerbox as monster 18 hp IC with a special highdome pump special made for that size engine, but juut curtains same as 4-5-6-8"-John

 

[LRC253]

Packing up for this weekend and noticed my suction hose male metal coupling (attaches to the flare) is separating from the hose. What type of "glue" should I use to secure them together? Read the owners manual on the dredge but they already came pre-attached.

 

[okbasspro]

Packing up for this weekend and noticed my suction hose male metal coupling (attaches to the flare) is separating from the hose. What type of "glue" should I use to secure them together? Read the owners manual on the dredge but they already came pre-attached.

My buddy runs a keene I run proline they both just thread onto outside of suction hose

 

[LRC253]

Very nice, I'll give it another look.

 

[Reed Lukens]

My buddy runs a keene I run proline they both just thread onto outside of suction hose

Proline screws on but Keene needs gorilla glue and heat. Keene connections are garbage... Try gorilla glue, there is a process to heat up and re-glue a Keene but the gorilla glue is worth experimenting with. Take some duct tape and a couple extra 4" clamps with you when you go dredging for a quick repair if needed. Tape the hose to the coupling and then secure it with the clamps for a field fix.

 

[MikeMike]

I replaced my hose and thought it was screwed on like proline. Called Keene and found out it was glued in with the purple "goop" glue. Like Reed said heat the connection up with a paint stripper heat gun or torch. Just do it outdoors.