1916 SLQ?

[Tuberale]

Have been selling off some of my hoard, and found what I have mis-identified as a 1920 SLQ. It is not. It is a Type 1, so obviously cannot be a 1920. Then got looking at it closer. I can barely make out a 6 in the final date position.

So I went to
http://www.anacs.com/contentPages/ShowArticle.aspx?ID=16

and compared the 1916 to the 1917 in terms of the lowest fold on Liberty's right (left-side of coin) bottom. My coin matches the 1916, and lacks the upward sweep of the "J" typical of the 1917. There is also what appears to be evidence (barely) of an additional fold on Liberty's left (right-hand bottom of coin), underneath what should be Liberty's robe on the 1917.

First, let me ask opinions: 1916 or 1917?

Second, is the *6* clear enough to prove date?

 

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[Tuberale]

Re: 1916 SLQ

There have now been 41 views of this thread, and no one has commented.

 

[Tuberale]

Re: 1916 SLQ? (New photos)

Adding more photos.

 

[ImpurestStewart]

Try Nic-a-Date? What could it hurt If it is you hit the jackpot basically. GL

 

[l.cutler]

Sorry, yours is a type 2, most likely 1917-1925. After 1925 the date area was altered so it didn't wear off so badly.

 

[Tuberale]

Sorry, yours is a type 2, most likely 1917-1925. After 1925 the date area was altered so it didn't wear off so badly.

You're absolutely correct! I posted the reverse of a 1921 SLQ instead of the 1916. I will remove the 1921 and replace with the 1916 shortly.

Thank you for pointing out my error.

 

[CoinHELP!]

It's a 1917 because the gown touches the box where the date is usually located.

 

[buffhunter]

From the Collectors Clearinghouse section of Coin World dated Dec 4, 2006, there are several pick up points:
"Drapery fold by Liberty's right foot: on the 1916 coin, the bottom is almost even rather than curved, and the gown does not touch the foot; on the 1917 coin, the end is quite rounded and the gown does touch."

the secret to finding an undated 1916 coin, in my opinion, is the above, verified by the designers initial. the M, on the right of the coin in the 5 oclock position, is very block-like on the 1916 coins, meaning the distance between the tops of the peaks of the M is almost equal to the distance on the base of the M (similar to how it is typed here). on the 1917 coins, the spread of the base is slightly wider than the top. sort of like a comic sands font M. this has helped me find two undated 1916 SLQ's back in the 1980's.

 

[Tuberale]

Thanks are due to both CoinHELP! and BuffHunter.

Darn, so close.

 

[m14nm]

If it were a 1916, there is no date. Would it be worth more than melt value? Just curious, I have two with no stars and no dates somewhere around here.

 

[ImpurestStewart]

If it were a 1916, there is no date. Would it be worth more than melt value? Just curious, I have two with no stars and no dates somewhere around here.

1916 SLQ are very rare and would be worth MUCH more than melt. The trick is listening to the above guys and trying to find one.

 

[Mackaydon]

I have found this article most helpful in distinquishing Type 1s from Type 2s:
http://www.slqcoins.us/educational.html

As a kid, I collected (and kept) ten of these 'no stars' quarters; one is an 'S' so that took the quesswork out of the question; none of the others (sad to report) were 6s, based on this reference.

Don.....
PS: Welcome to Treasure Net M14NM !!

 

[captainfwiffo]

A dateless 1916 can be worth over $1000 and will be authenticated and slabbed by some of the TPGs (I know ANACS will), so it's worth knowing how to cherry-pick them.

 

[CladSpends2]

Very informative post, Captain. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

T.