1833 Large Cent advice

[my2hands]

Needed a little advice on this 1833 large cent. Found on a 19th century hillside farm. The dirt is solidly on the coin and wont come off. Ive used warm water and a toothpick carefully but not making great progress. The detail on this coin seems very good for an 1833. Does anyone think it would be worth getting it graded? If so what would it bring round about? The pics are of the same coin at different times.

 

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[l.cutler]

Definitely not, it would be marked as genuine,corroded and or environmental damage, and maybe a details grade. It is a fantastic find, but as a collectors piece there would not be much interest because of the corrosion.

 

[nsdq]

nice find

 

[my2hands]

Definitely not, it would be marked as genuine,corroded and or environmental damage, and maybe a details grade. It is a fantastic find, but as a collectors piece there would not be much interest because of the corrosion.

Well I just thought that there would be a way to get that dry mud off and then all thats left would be patina. Isnt an authentic old coin that has high detail and nice green patina gradeable and still valuable?

 

[Generic_Lad]

Well I just thought that there would be a way to get that dry mud off and then all thats left would be patina. Isnt an authentic old coin that has high detail and nice green patina gradeable and still valuable?

No dug coin is really "gradable" especially not dug copper.

If you're really lucky you might get a "details" grade, but reputable grading companies are supposed to either use a details grade or refuse grading altogether for damaged coins (and a green copper certainly counts as damaged!)

When dealing with damaged coins, its unlikely that the cost of grading would pay off when its time to sell it. Instead, the only time that grading really "pays off" is when:

A) You're dealing with mint state stuff that might be on the borderline of a large price jump (for example, some common Morgan Dollars are quite common and affordable in say, MS-65 but the prices go up to 5 figures in MS-66 and higher condition. Or sometimes if you have a roll of common, well-struck older modern coins, some people will pay a premium if one of them grades a high grade such as MS-68 or MS-69, even though a generic, unslabbed uncirculated coin of that type might just be worth $5 at most.

B) You've got a coin you want to sell on eBay or another online place that is easily and widely counterfeited (such as a 1916-D Mercury dime), there if you have the coin slabbed you can put buyers at ease that they are buying the real article and may very well bid higher because of that and you'll make your grading fee back (plus more)

C) You've got a coin that is hard to attribute and you plan on selling it on eBay, examples would be certain valuable doubled dies that are hard to see without lots of magnification.

D) You've got a well struck coin that will receive an additional designation (full head standing liberty quarter, full split bands Mercury dimes, full bell lines Bens, etc.)

E) You're a dealer who just got in a shipment of 2013 X coins and if one grades at MS-70 you can sell it for more than the grading fees cost for the entire lot.

F) You really, really, really, really like registry sets and you're perfectly OK with adding $30+ per coin in your collection to brag about it online.


Other than those circumstances, there really is no reason to send in a coin for grading. Your coin would just be sent back and you'd be out your grading fee.

 

[l.cutler]

No dug coin is really "gradable" especially not dug copper.

If you're really lucky you might get a "details" grade, but reputable grading companies are supposed to either use a details grade or refuse grading altogether for damaged coins (and a green copper certainly counts as damaged!)

When dealing with damaged coins, its unlikely that the cost of grading would pay off when its time to sell it. Instead, the only time that grading really "pays off" is when:

A) You're dealing with mint state stuff that might be on the borderline of a large price jump (for example, some common Morgan Dollars are quite common and affordable in say, MS-65 but the prices go up to 5 figures in MS-66 and higher condition. Or sometimes if you have a roll of common, well-struck older modern coins, some people will pay a premium if one of them grades a high grade such as MS-68 or MS-69, even though a generic, unslabbed uncirculated coin of that type might just be worth $5 at most.

B) You've got a coin you want to sell on eBay or another online place that is easily and widely counterfeited (such as a 1916-D Mercury dime), there if you have the coin slabbed you can put buyers at ease that they are buying the real article and may very well bid higher because of that and you'll make your grading fee back (plus more)

C) You've got a coin that is hard to attribute and you plan on selling it on eBay, examples would be certain valuable doubled dies that are hard to see without lots of magnification.

D) You've got a well struck coin that will receive an additional designation (full head standing liberty quarter, full split bands Mercury dimes, full bell lines Bens, etc.)

E) You're a dealer who just got in a shipment of 2013 X coins and if one grades at MS-70 you can sell it for more than the grading fees cost for the entire lot.

F) You really, really, really, really like registry sets and you're perfectly OK with adding $30+ per coin in your collection to brag about it online.


Other than those circumstances, there really is no reason to send in a coin for grading. Your coin would just be sent back and you'd be out your grading fee.

Well said!

 

[my2hands]

No dug coin is really "gradable" especially not dug copper.

If you're really lucky you might get a "details" grade, but reputable grading companies are supposed to either use a details grade or refuse grading altogether for damaged coins (and a green copper certainly counts as damaged!)

When dealing with damaged coins, its unlikely that the cost of grading would pay off when its time to sell it. Instead, the only time that grading really "pays off" is when:

A) You're dealing with mint state stuff that might be on the borderline of a large price jump (for example, some common Morgan Dollars are quite common and affordable in say, MS-65 but the prices go up to 5 figures in MS-66 and higher condition. Or sometimes if you have a roll of common, well-struck older modern coins, some people will pay a premium if one of them grades a high grade such as MS-68 or MS-69, even though a generic, unslabbed uncirculated coin of that type might just be worth $5 at most.

B) You've got a coin you want to sell on eBay or another online place that is easily and widely counterfeited (such as a 1916-D Mercury dime), there if you have the coin slabbed you can put buyers at ease that they are buying the real article and may very well bid higher because of that and you'll make your grading fee back (plus more)

C) You've got a coin that is hard to attribute and you plan on selling it on eBay, examples would be certain valuable doubled dies that are hard to see without lots of magnification.

D) You've got a well struck coin that will receive an additional designation (full head standing liberty quarter, full split bands Mercury dimes, full bell lines Bens, etc.)

E) You're a dealer who just got in a shipment of 2013 X coins and if one grades at MS-70 you can sell it for more than the grading fees cost for the entire lot.

F) You really, really, really, really like registry sets and you're perfectly OK with adding $30+ per coin in your collection to brag about it online.

Other than those circumstances, there really is no reason to send in a coin for grading. Your coin would just be sent back and you'd be out your grading fee.

Very good info.
So in other words my coin is not worth anything. I was under the assumption that old coins with high details and good patina were valuable. I guess its just historical value more than anything.

 

[scott9050]

Very good info.
So in other words my coin is not worth anything. I was under the assumption that old coins with high details and good patina were valuable. I guess its just historical value more than anything.

It is not valueless, it is just worth about 1/2 to 1/3 of what an undamaged coin would be.
I would give it an olive oil bath for a few weeks.

 

[huntsman53]

Either soak it in Mineral Oil or Virgin Olive Oil for 3 weeks, then clean the dirt, debris and loose corrosion off with a green Rose Thorn. After that, just rinse the coin off then pat dry with a small towel.


Frank