1236X-2 Vs. Classic III

[Tico14]

I have been using a 1236X-2 for my relic, ghost town detector in Iron. I have a White's Classic III on the way that I bought used. It doesn't have Mr. Bill's Mods but my soil is pretty mild and may not need Manual GB, we will see. I'm getting decent depth with the 1236 and factory Pre-set GB. Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Classic III in iron to try and get a feel for if it will be better or worse than the 1236 for a beep dig ghost town, woods machine in iron nails,

 

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[aladdin]

Ah the Classic III (never used a 1236X hear they are good)the III I love it and will always have one /but dislike the digging of iron /but dislike not finding the iron that led me to the old relics that lay below! It is a mixed blessing as I take my beach hunting to the land which means for me more digging with more coins and more relics. There are many benefits to the III they are called "Mr Bill". Good diggin diggstown!

 

[Sandman]

I don't own a 1236-2 but I have used one for a while and find it a super detector. I still use my 1235 and it is a little less featured than the 1236. Personally I don't think I could change over to the smaller Classic III as I also like my DFX. but that is a different story altogether.

 

[dahut]

I have been using a 1236X-2 for my relic, ghost town detector in Iron. I have a White's Classic III on the way that I bought used. It doesn't have Mr. Bill's Mods but my soil is pretty mild and may not need Manual GB, we will see. I'm getting decent depth with the 1236 and factory Pre-set GB. Just wondering if anybody has any experience with the Classic III in iron to try and get a feel for if it will be better or worse than the 1236 for a beep dig ghost town, woods machine in iron nails,

Keep the 1236x2 for deep woods and most relic tasks. I have a Classic ID modified by Mr Bill. It is a sweet detector and I like it a lot. But it does not match the 1236x2 as a relic detector.

I could go into my tests on coins and low conductive items, but let me suffice it to say that the 1236x2 is the better of the two. It hits harder and deeper on brass and other low conductive targets, while matching the Classic on coins. I can get a U.S. dime, reliably, at 7 1/2"-8" with either one.
However, the 1236x2 is still signaling on a nickel at 9 1/2", the Classic having given out two inches back.

But, the Whites is smooth and has a butter smooth discrimination around iron. The Fisher can only wish for the same. At low disc settings it is going to alert you to iron... bammm! If you switch the SILENCE on, it helps. But the Whites doesn't need all that. I just flops or flutters depending on your DISC setting - and thats it.

The Fisher has a harsh audio. And that phone cord snags every branch and twig that comes by. Audio-wise, the Whites is smooth and its cord is at your elbow. Nice.
The Fisher offers volume control, so it can be turned down. The Whites doesn't have that - and doesn't need it.
The Whites is a little weird with its underslung control box, but it floats nicely in the hand. The controls are set and forget. The Fisher is a little top heavy, and the controls can be "busy," if you're a knob twiddler. Between the two I'd give the general ease of operation to the White's, but the Fisher isn't far off. Mostly, just different.

Both are about the same in response speed, but the Whites has the edge in separation. In fact, it hits a dime with both a pull-tab or bottle cap touching the coin! Across the board, it just edged out the Fisher in target separation.

In the park or urban setting you can get by with a 1236x2 - I have. But I'd prefer the Classic.
Out in the woods, I'd take the 1236x2, for it's somewhat better depth.