$1000 machine vs $300 machine.

Few more bells and whistles. Some have VMI readouts some don't. Some have dual programs. Disc. and all metal. But you can usually do that on cheaper detector. Some are lighter and cost more. Some come with several coils. I think usually the more costly detectors will give you more info on a target to let you make the call to dig the target or not. Confused? Me too. A lot of finds come with just good luck.
 

can add a couple more ground balance, waterproof, sometimes more depth...
 

Multi-frequency; better discrimination; better depth.
 

Yep, you are correct. They're are just so many to choose from. I like the Iron ID on my ATP which is a good add on feature. Lots of good machines in the 5 to 8 hundred range and I've got a buddy with the low cost Tesoro and he finds a lot of treasure. Good luck to you.
 

look for a used , almost new one on Craigslist or pay for a new one i got a 5 yr warranty and it picks up sub grain targets , not the deepest but i hate to dig real deep .
 

The bells an whistles on the more expensive machines have their place, but in the end they only indicate that there's metal under the coil which is the same thing the cheaper detector does. In the hands of a person that has used and knows their machine well, either can find a lot of good targets if they're there, under the coil. IMHO if one starts out with an adequate, but reasonably priced detector and gets to know it well, they will find plenty of goodies. AND they'll have a good loaner or back up if they decide to upgrade to a fancier detector.
luvsdux
 

not knocking the advanced features of a higher end machine because i'm sure they have their place when used by an experienced md'er, but i would think a less expensive machine that is simpler to operate would allow someone just starting out more time to enjoy the hobby and less time worrying about if all the controls were properly tweaked
 

Simplicity is not just for beginners. I've been detecting for 23 years, and at this point, I have no interested in programs, menus, tweaking settings etc. I just want to have fun detecting. What I find, I find. If I'm getting good targets in the top 8" of soil then that's fine with me. Do I need to spend thousands to find that potential coin 1 or 2" deeper? No thanks. I like digging, but there are few places I hunt where it is appropriate to dig more than 8". Am I missing anything? Maybe, but I'm okay with that. My Vaquero finds enough good stuff and I enjoy swinging it. Maybe one day I'll get another machine with a screen, but I still don't want a zillion settings to mess around with. Simple and fun. That's my perfect detector.
 

They will both work for someone that takes the time to learn them. The multi frequency machines are more expensive but they also are more capable in certain areas and situations. Some machines get so complex that they are confusing and you spend more time trying to tweak them than you do actually finding stuff. Most of the good coins that I have found have been 6 inches or less deep around here so owning a detector that will go really deep gets you an occasional goodie but they are few and far between. Target separation and stability seem to be more important around here than raw depth. I enjoy a visual ID of some kind on a machine but that's just my preference and I have seen many good finds pulled from the ground by machines with no visual ID.
You will also pay a lot more money for machines that are special purpose machines such as submersible detectors that work well in salt water and detectors designed to find tiny gold. Since I don't water hunt and I don't hunt for gold then my CZ5 suits me just fine. It has good ID at depth, its simple to use, and gives me plenty of information both audibly and visually.
 

The question was asked: What does the $1000 machine do that a $300 machine can't do?

The answer: About double the weight!

Without a support strap, I can hunt for about an hour with my GTI-2500. That's when my shoulder starts to hurt. With my Ace 250, I can hunt for about 4 hours straight, and no pain.

The 2500 IDs better (I don't dig as much trash) so I find more nickels with it. It pinpoints a bit better too. For kiddy lots, I prefer the Ace.
 

One thing worth keeping in mind is that the fancy machines with lots of menus and tweaks may give a bit more performance in some situations, but can also give dismal performance if tweaked and set in the wrong direction. This is even true with manual ground balance detectors. They will generally give more depth than a preset ground machine, but may do quite poorly if not set properly. When it's all said and done however, I'm a fan of USE WHAT YOU LIKE.
luvsdux
 

H-2 CHARLIE said:
look for a used , almost new one on Craigslist or pay for a new one i got a 5 yr warranty and it picks up sub grain targets , not the deepest but i hate to dig real deep .
Click to expand...

Yes buy a used mid tier one & save a bunch of money. For $300 you can possibly get an $800 used detector.

CWnut said:
not knocking the advanced features of a higher end machine because i'm sure they have their place when used by an experienced md'er, but i would think a less expensive machine that is simpler to operate would allow someone just starting out more time to enjoy the hobby and less time worrying about if all the controls were properly tweaked
Click to expand...

Simple is definitely best for beginners & with some machines you're a beginner FOR EVER with the learning curve they have & that learning curve stage changes from machine to machine so stick to one machine at first & learn to understand what its telling ya! I have a $1000 machine (well even more with the add on sun ray pin pointer), I have 2 coils 9.5" eclipse & 10" DD & it does everything I need it to do. Could it do more, sure it could but It does what I need it to do so I'm happy! My machine can be found used for about $500 with extras & sometimes even a little less than that, might get lucky & get one for $350-$375ish.
 

In my experience, a $1000 detector will find many more "keepers" than a $300 detector. Cost is a definite factor, yet not the deciding one. A person using a high end detector usually has graduated from lesser models. Along the way, has also gained more detecting knowledge. Realize the type, area, history and ground condition you plan to hunt. Let these be the deciding factors why cost matters and what machine is best for you. Peace
 

I agree. Sometimes it matters where you live and hunt. Ground mineralization is a big player in this detector matter. The area I live and hunt has low to med. iron and minerals in the soil. My average GB will run around 51 with 49 being usually the lower number. Some machines in my thinking react better or worse to the high mineralization. I had a ML Explorer but it didn't work for me where it works for people up north or out west. I guess I'm getting around to saying, get a machine that you can ground balance and even adjust it up or down. It makes a lot of difference in the depth of the machine in my area anyway. Good luck to All.
 

Dardego said:
I am serious with this question. What does the $1000 machine do that a $300 machine can't do?
Click to expand...

Which $1,000 unit vs. which $300 unit?

In general, the versatility of the higher $ units is greater. Potentially seperate circuits for the audit vs. display (so it's a handheld second opinion), better discrimination, faster response, better iron masking, batter target seperation, ability to detect a good target under an iron "null" or trash, additional frequency adjustment features (whether single or multiple), better "automatic" ground balancing probably

Much like with a car: more $ gets you more performance, convenience and quality.
 

Thanks Guys,
I think I need more experience with my $300 detector before I move up. Great info.
 

You must log in or register to reply here.

Advice For a Newbie

⬅️ Previous Thread

newcomer advice

Next Thread ➡️

Top Member Reactions

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Steve's Detector Rods

Latest Discussions

Back
Top